The Hess-ians are coming

Hess Collection “Hess Select” 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (California) – This used to be a fairly un-screwed-with cabernet, not complex or all that interesting, but quite emblematic of what the fruit tastes like before some misguided soul tries to give it “points.” And I guess it still is. Dark fruit, some cedar, some leaves, a supple structure (that, at least, indicates some effort towards mass-marketing), and a generally pleasant finish. Nothing that will rock your world, but at the right price, this is quaffable. (6/08)

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