Hess 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Allomi (Napa Valley) – Obviousness personified, and though the wine has more of cabernet’s tobacco signature than most of its pushed-ripeness, overoaked, over-merloted brethren, there’s an unfortunate satisfaction with that state: it tastes like fermented tobacco wine rather than something made from grapes. Plenty of structure, especially tannin, so this will last a good long while. I have no idea what it will develop into, though. An ashtray? (7/08)
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The Hess-ians are coming
Hess Collection “Hess Select” 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (California) – This used to be a fairly un-screwed-with cabernet, not complex or all that interesting, but quite emblematic of what the fruit tastes like before some misguided soul tries to give it “points.” And I guess it still is. Dark fruit, some cedar, some leaves, a supple structure (that, at least, indicates some effort towards mass-marketing), and a generally pleasant finish. Nothing that will rock your world, but at the right price, this is quaffable. (6/08)