Optima illusion

[grapes]Nobilo “Vinoptima” 2003 Gewurztraminer “Reserve” (Ormond) – “Welcome to Vinoptima, the world’s best Gewurztraminer,” says the web site. Uh-huh. It’s certainly priced as if it is. It’s served blind, and the reaction from my dining companions, including at least one certified gewürztraminer fetishist, is…indifference. There are fields of roses, honey-covered (but raw, not roasted) almonds and hazelnuts, but these fields are choked with rank weeds. Vegetal and green throughout. The finish is blessedly short. This wine is grossly overpriced, and not even good. The Nobilo family should be embarrassed…by both the wine and the hubris. (4/08)

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