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Hog Island Oyster Company – A small space, busy for lunch, but despite some quirks in service (they could probably use one more person; there’s a pair of waiters that work the tables, but those sitting at the bar – like me – sometimes lack for attention). That aside, the oysters here are phenomenal, though there are plenty of alternative dishes for those not into chilly plates of briny lusciousness. I order two dozen mixed oysters (Hog Island’s Sweetwater and Atlantic varieties, Kumamotos, and some flown-in Clevedons from New Zealand), settle down with a few glasses of some crisp, clean, but soon forgotten Muscadet, and slurp until I just can’t slurp no more. Celebrity sighting: Cynthia Nixon plops down next to me early in my repast, and comments amusedly on the proliferation of oysters in front of me. I threaten to order another two dozen, she laughs, that’s the end of it. The oysters are terrific (with the exception of the Clevedons, which are interesting in their uniqueness – as they were a few years ago in the source country – but don’t really measure up to the others, especially the zippy little Kumamotos. There’s a short wine and microbrew list that’s well-matched to the cuisine, and overall this is a place I’m glad isn’t anywhere near my home, because I’d be eating here every other day. (8/04)

Hog Island Oyster Co. – This Ferry Building outpost is as perfect as always. People insist that there’s much else on the menu of worth, but really, why? They’ve got oysters. They come on big plates free of unnecessary adornments. You can order many, many dozens of them. Who needs anything else? I’ve got a big meal ahead, so I limit myself to a scant three-dozen (mixed) and leave hungry. (4/05)

Hog Island Oyster Co. – Is it pigging out when a single person devours three dozen oysters? Oh, who cares…they’re terrific, especially the succulent Effingham Inlet oysters from British Columbia, which are so enticing on this day that my third dozen is 100% Effingham. And kudos to Hog Island for continuing to present a thoughtfully-conceived short list of oyster-friendly wine, beer and sake. (4/06)