JF Becker 2002 Riesling Kronenbourg (Alsace) – Hits like a dull cleaver, delivering a sharp blow but failing at a clean, precise blow. This isn’t to discount the wine’s qualities, which include a round-bellied minerality and a shiny, affable gloss to the finish. But it’s just a touch less precise than the slightly superior 2001. (4/08)

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