Browse Tag

france

Charly horse

[régnié]Charly Thévenet 2014 Régnié “Grain & Granit” (Beaujolais) — Bright, brittle red fruit laden with petal icicles. Warms as it finishes, leaving behind a flood of flowers and fresh-faced innocence. (11/16)

This time it’s Personnelle

[trimbach]Trimbach 1997 Pinot Gris “Réserve Personnelle” (Alsace) — There’s a lot not going on here. Over the hill with entirely present oxidation, so while it’s possible other bottles will be more intact, it’s also possible this is premoxed (though I usually date Trimbach’s problems with premox to ’98, not ’97). (11/16)

Head boy

[tête]Michel Tête “Domaine du Clos du Fief” 2004 Juliénas (Beaujolais) — Rich and dark and about 75% “pinotted,” this is still Juliénas but it’s a little trickier to say it’s gamay any longer. Mature sexuality. (11/16)

CVV

[clos des briords]Ollivier “La Pépière” 2004 Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie Clos des Briords “Cuvée Vieilles Vignes” (Loire) — Broad and deep. As purely intellectual a vinous exercise as I’ve encountered in some time; all the pleasure to be found from drinking this requires attention and understanding. There’s no way this would ever be appealing to the soif crowd, unless they’re absolutely prepared for the experience. All that said, it’s brilliant wine at the top of its game. (11/16)

Lapalu, see? I’m home!

[lapalu]Lapalu 2014 Brouilly La Croix des Rameaux (Beaujolais) — Almost breathtakingly pretty. Crushed berries (some exotic cousin of the cherry) edged with flowers so bright they glow like neon. Lovely. (11/16)

Clissondo

[clisson]La Pépière 2009 Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Clisson (Loire) — Two bottles. First is partially oxidized, likely due to cork failure. Second is tentative and restrained; an infinite blank plane of unwillingness. I’m not sure how to judge its future, given these performances. (11/16)

Levrette Dirksen

[marnes blanches]Domaine des Marnes Blanches 2013 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay “En Levrette” (Jura) — Soulful. Rocks, well-earned sweat, deep amber sunglow. Everything’s present but everything’s elusive. I love this wine. (11/16)

We are bourg. Gewurztraminer is futile.

[blanck]Blanck 2001 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg (Alsace) — Lychee and steel, crystals and bite. Off-dry, for sure, but there’s plenty of acidity. Hold longer? No danger in doing so, but no real reason to either; I don’t think this has bacon in its future. (10/16)

Muscat on a hot tin roof

Boxler 2012 Muscat (Alsace) — Surprisingly reticent for a muscat, taking what used to be a fairly common alternative Alsatian expression of “extremely floral riesling” more seriously than most. (10/16