Browse Month

May 2009

Face the Fache

Renardat-Fache Bugey Cerdon (Ain) – There are only so many ways to say “soda pop for adults,” but it’s still the best characterization. More so here, perhaps, because the wine’s sweetness and fruit are slightly more candied than normal. It’s still a more vibrant and present wine than the more mineral-driven Bottex, and for my tastes just a wee bit better, but the gap is smaller in this release that it sometimes has been. (4/09)

Renardat-Fache Bugey Cerdon (Ain) – Second note, same as the first. (4/09)

Green & growing

[cellar]Agriverde “Riseis di Recastro” 2005 Terre di Chieti Pecorino (Abruzzi) – Surprising depth of flavor, rather than just texture (the problem I’ve had with other pecorinos), mostly in the almond and/or dry stone fruit range, but definitely preferring the former. Hums along with significant volume. Very tasty. (4/09)

Call a Cabes

Gardiès “Mas Les Cabes” 2007 Côtes du Roussillon (Roussillon) – Sour, stewed, and clearly the victim of some sort of damage. (4/09)

Jugie & jury

Alliance Minervois “Jacques de la Jugie” 2006 Minervois La Livinière “Cella Vinaria” (Languedoc) – Were there a Minervois Nouveau (and for all I know, maybe there is), I suspect it would taste a little like this: the dark, soil-infused leather of Minervois in a surprisingly light, crisp, approachable way. I find this a little shocking in a Livinière-labeled bottling – I expect extra layers of density and difficulty at this age – but it’s hard to deny the wine’s appeal. (4/09)

Marcobrunn polo

[estate]Schloss Schönborn 2005 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett 019 06 (Rheingau) – Extremely sweet, with wet acidity; this could be an auslese by its character, though it wouldn’t be a very good one, because it lacks much aside from the basic fact of its structure and a swoosh of tropicality. The problem is that it’s not a very good kabinett either; even by modern standards, it’s hellishly large. Only by ignoring classifications can the wine’s actual appeal be assessed…and there, it’s tasty enough. Maybe age will help, but I suspect not all that much of it. (4/09)

Far from Faller

JM Raffault 2006 Chinon Clos des Capucins (Loire) – The parts are mostly there…slightly bitter cherries, a certain rusticity, herbs, earth, some cold mushrooms…but they never really coalesce into anything particularly interesting. The rusty, brackish fruit just sort of sits there, wan and underdeveloped. Maybe time will help. But probably not. Kudos, however, for the ridiculously heavy and over-designed bottle, which is going to increase the bicep strength of retailers everywhere, should they wish to stock this wine. (4/09)

Mr. Drink!

Boisson “Domaine du Père Caboche” 2007 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse (Rhône) – Appealing red-faced fruit (cherries and plums) with some vague gestures in the direction of matters darker, earthier, or more herbal. But it’s mostly about the fruit. Fun. (4/09)

Beer czar

Otter Creek “Imperial Series” Russian Imperial Stout (Vermont) – Sweet and sticky. Burnt sugar, espresso bean oils, molasses, thick malt, etc. (4/09)

Schoen new heitz

[vineyard]Schoenheitz 2004 Riesling Herrenreben (Alsace) – Very intense, somewhere between molten steel and lava, with vibrant metal-jacketed apple and a powerful palate impact. May be a bit too much for some, but it’s dry and vibrant, and appears to have the requisite stuffing and length to age. (4/09)

Chiroubles in mind

Pacalet 2005 Chiroubles (Beaujolais) – Electrified gamay. Crisp light purple fruit, zippy and zingy, with a strong charge as the dominant textural element. This is a wine that refuses to sit still. Really, really good. (4/09)