Far from Faller

JM Raffault 2006 Chinon Clos des Capucins (Loire) – The parts are mostly there…slightly bitter cherries, a certain rusticity, herbs, earth, some cold mushrooms…but they never really coalesce into anything particularly interesting. The rusty, brackish fruit just sort of sits there, wan and underdeveloped. Maybe time will help. But probably not. Kudos, however, for the ridiculously heavy and over-designed bottle, which is going to increase the bicep strength of retailers everywhere, should they wish to stock this wine. (4/09)

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