Occhipinti 2009 Nero d’Avola “Siccagno” (Sicily) – Everyone has their dirty secrets, and here’s mine: a plurality of the time, I prefer this wine to her frappato. Why such heresy? Because this one is almost never intrusively volatile, and because the occasionally-present hint of brett (in both wines) melds better with nero d’avola than it does with frappato. (In fact, I usually prefer her Tami frappato to her eponymous one, and for similar reasons.) But enough about the wine that this isn’t. What about the wine that it is? The very transparency that makes the frappato – oh dear, here I go again – so compelling is what’s brought to this often-opaque grape, to its great benefit. It’s still a big, muscular, dark, powerdy-dirt wine…but that’s not all it is. Frankly, it’s a work of somewhat mad genius, or (perhaps more appropriately given the personality of the winemaker) wickedly joyous genius. Is it the “best” nero d’avola one could ever have? Probably not, but mind: a good part of it’s appeal is that it’s not trying to be, either. (8/12)
thor iverson
Time for a Trim
Trimbach 2008 Riesling (Alsace) – A powerfully appealing vintage that has not yet closed down (if it ever will; these négociant bottlings sometimes do, and some of those even come out the other end tasting better…2001 was an example, though it’s well past its prime by now). Vibrant ironfruit, perfect structure. If this all sounds like overenthusiasm, note that what it lacks vs. better rieslings is complexity; this is a direct shot right at the heart of varietal rieslinghood in Alsace, but there’s no ricochet. (8/12)
Bucci cucci
Bucci 2002 Rosso Piceno “Pongelli” (Marches) – From an inventory clearance, and thus the performance of this bottle is not necessarily representative. Fading, trembling red fruit, decrepit and in need of some serious vitamins just to stand upright. (8/12)
My name is Niederösterreich, Ira Niederösterreich…I’m an oral surgeon
Steininger 2009 Riesling Sekt (Niederösterreich) – A struggle. A slog. Frothy, difficult riesling that’s way too fluffy for its austerity. If that makes any sense. (8/12)
Not one sou
Mirassou 2009 Pinot Noir (California) – In the battle between reputation and reality, this takes the very small hill without firing a shot: clean pinot-ish fruit with just as hint of mushroom. In other words, it greatly exceeds my expectations for inexpensive mass-market pinot noir. One could drink a lot worse. Though: better, too. (8/12)
Pressel
Lapierre 2007 Morgon (Beaujolais) – Tense. It’s really a very attractive wine, but there’s an overt nervosity beyond the usual Lapierre liveliness…so much so that I’d consider drinking it sooner rather than later, because it seems like it’s about to fall from its tipping point. I could easily be wrong, of course, and since I’m still holding bottles of this from the much-earlier 2000s that are doing fine, history suggests that I am. (8/12)
Sekt & zweigeltness
Steininger 2008 Zweigelt Sekt (Austria) – Zweigelt is a grape that, while it maintains a Teutonic reserve and stiff upper, usually seems to be barely restraining a little explosion of laughter. Only the ravages of heavy wood and international blending grapes can really repress the undercurrent of fun. On the other hand, it’s possible to release too many inhibitions, and that’s what I feel is going on here. Tutti-frutti berries, an almost candied sweet-tartness, and an overdose of affected fun. While the medium-dark froth is a fun party guest, you’ll soon find yourself looking elsewhere for interesting conversation. (8/12)
Netzl logic
Netzl 2009 “Carnuntum Cuvée” (Carnuntum) – Zweigelt, blaufränkisch, merlot. And that’s what it tastes like: a lot of elevated, appealing florality given some leaden thickness by a grape that neither of the others really needs. Though I suppose Netzl’s judgment of need is here less related to the organoleptics than the market. It’s a nice enough wine, though. (8/12)
Neipper tucker
Grafen Reipperg 2005 Neipperger Schlossberg Samtrot 004 07 (Württemberg) – A nippy, yappy little sipper, awkward but goofily appealing in the way of, say, a cool-climate hybrid grape. The appeal degrades quickly, though. (8/12)
Brew brew
Berkshire Brewing Co. Coffeehouse Porter (Massachusetts) – Deftly done, in that the coffee is quite apparent yet does not overtake the porter that it is supposed to support rather than dominate. Still, the blend adds a sort of overall caramelization…a sweetness…that not everyone will like. In smaller quantities than the large bottle format in which this comes, I think I’d like this a lot. (8/12)