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Paris: Le Village Buffet – Ambitious but underachieving, this attempted survey of the regional cuisines of France fails on multiple levels. The fact is, outside of slow-cooked stews, roasts and the like, many French regional classics just don’t translate very well to the chafing dish and the heat lamp. But choucroute garnie or cassoulet aren’t exactly dishes for the desert, and who wants stews in Vegas? This would all be forgiven if the food was a little better, but it’s just not, and the cheese selections are downright embarrassing. (2003)