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Boulders – When I was very young, tiny but tourist-infested Walker had several “fine dining” (in relative terms) restaurants, both in and out of town. By the time I was old enough to enjoy food not made in a blender, however, things had changed, and by the time I started visiting rather than living here, the restaurant scene was in full free-fall. It wasn’t that new establishments weren’t opening, it’s that they were all pretty much the same thing: cheap, ultra-casual and only a slight step above what you’d find in your freezer section.

But now, that’s changed. Boulders is an ambitious project, with a stylish bar and a well-windowed room (that somehow manages to be fairly dark) in a Northwoodsy log building, plus an outdoor patio along two exterior sides; both seating areas have a view of Leech Lake. But the ambition has paid off, because the place is packed to the gills between Memorial Day and Labor Day, even midweek; in other words, reservations are absolutely essential, and even then there’s likely to be a wait for a table.

The service, from a mostly youthful but uniformed (that’s uniformed, not uninformed) staff, is a clear step above anything in the region; “Minnesota nice” but equipped to handle the higher standards of the restaurant. The wine list is, given the limitations and expectations of the location, frankly outstanding, with things like Felton Road Pinot Noir, Beaux Frères, a few semi-cultish cabs, and even a nice selection of whites that aren’t bland, oaky chardonnays. There’s a decent selection of digestifs (including some single-malt Scotch and Sherry) along with a long, signature list of perversions of the martini. Stemware is more than adequate, but the reds appear to be stored in the main dining room; on our midsummer visit the overly-chilly air conditioning was doing no harm, but I wonder about the winter months.

And the food? Quite ambitious for the area. There are frequently-changed specials, and my barbecue-style pork shank from that category is flawlessly, wonderfully tender and juicy, with just the right amount of flavor from a sauce that’s not overly sweet. An appetizer of chicken with gorgonzola fondue is equally excellent, though the menu is slightly misleading as to the composition; the promised jerk chicken chunks are extremely mild (no surprise given the Midwestern clientele), while the accompanying croutons (just soft enough to spear with the provided wooden skewers, yet crispy enough to provide bite) are both more numerous and frankly better with the dipping sauce. As for the gorgonzola fondue itself, it’s extremely light on the blue cheese, but tasty in a richly gloppy way. Another appetizer of a good crab and artichoke dip (thickened with cream cheese) is partially outshone by its bread accompaniment: deep-fried pita wedges, which are as insanely good as they are artery-clogging. A locally-representative main dish of lemon and breadcrumb-encrusted walleye is well-prepared, though walleye isn’t the most flavorful fish. Even the bread basket is superior. Note, however, this important caveat: the appetizers are immense, and the mains are slightly bigger; those with delicate – or normal – appetites may want to order carefully.

Desserts seem mostly pre-made, with a collection of variations on cheesecake dominating. A slice of a mango variation is quite fine in a straightforward way, but those who prefer the Italianate ricotta to the Americanized cream cheese version may wish to order something else.

As should be obvious, I am extremely impressed with this restaurant. It’s a little pricey for the area, certainly, but city dwellers will likely find it a relative bargain, and in any case the constant flow of business suggests that they’re doing something right. Or make that: pretty much everything. (9/07)