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home > dining > usa > massachusetts > boston

Sel de la Terre – This restaurant opened with a lot of hype: a Frank McClelland (l’Espalier) offshoot, with a focus on Provence, and a plum location right in the heart of the tourist waterfront (a location so enticing they’ve now been joined by Legal Seafood…which is a little twisted, considering that both are adjacent to the New England Aquarium). And while the food was excellent from the start, the service was an absolute disaster. Eventually, I just gave up after several futile attempts at an enjoyable experience.

Things have certainly changed. This restaurant is as busy as its ownership could ever have hoped, with financial district lunchers mingling with tourists and foodies from opening to closing. But the service issues have been worked out, and this is now an energetic, fun place to go with just about any kind of diner, from timid to adventurous. Prices remain reasonable, especially at lunch and from the prix fixe menu, and the wine list is extensive and full of inventive, food-friendly choices at many different prices.

If there’s a complaint to be made, it’s that success has made the service a little abrupt; they’re friendly, but they’ve got a lot of tables to cover, and those in search of a slow-paced chat might find themselves cut off mid-sentence during peak times. That’s OK, though. Two things not to miss: the fries, and the bread available for takeout in the foyer. (Review based on multiple visits, and note that this review only applies to the original, waterfront location.)

   

Copyright © Thor Iverson