Castello dei Rampolla 2003 “Sammarco” (Tuscany) – Thick with the blackest fruit, thick with wood, and full of chocolately tannin. Stunningly-structured, but imbalanced towards rigidity. (2/07)
tuscany
Little Poder
La Poderina 2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany) – Structured and mineral-laden, with a cedar overlay and a general absence of fruit. It tastes like old wood (by which I don’t mean “made in”), and decays rather abruptly in the glass. (2/07)
Judy Tenuta
Tenuta di Trinoro 2004 Rosso Toscana (Tuscany) – Elegant and spicy, with medium wood and some buttered popcorn. The rest is all red fruit, though. (2/07)
Tenuta di Trinoro 2004 Rosso Toscana “Le Cupole” (Tuscany) – Herbs, dark fruit. Thick, slightly soupy. (2/07)
Camigliano Bowles-Parker
Camigliano 2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany) – Leather, powdered graphite and lots of earthiness. Striking. Very dry, but intense. There’s a future here. (2/07)
Lady di
Argiano 2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany) – Ungenerous. Graphite and sour, sour cherries. Soft and wussy underneath a surplus of tannin. (2/07)
NC State
Argiano 2004 “NC” (Tuscany) – Weird. Grey earth and paper. Flat and tough. This is actually wine, right? You know, made from grapes? (2/07)
So far, so good, Solengo
Argiano 2003 “Solengo” (Tuscany) – Rich vanilla milkshake with a chocolate drizzle. Far too internationalized and boring. (2/07)
Classico music
Montesecondo 2005 Chianti Classico (Tuscany) – Moderately intense strawberry stands out amidst otherwise violet-hued fruit. Structured, long, and authentic, with balance and purity. (1/08)
Isabella Toscana
Montesecondo 2005 Toscana Rosso (Tuscany) – A field blend of sangiovese and canaiolo. Buzzy, light, semi-fresh strawberry and some meat. Simple. (1/08)
Rospo Douthat
Montesecondo 2005 Toscana “Rosso del Rospo” (Tuscany) – Sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, and some cabernet franc. Tobacco and blackberry with light red pepper. Long and balanced, with fine structure not yet divested of a lingering edginess. It’s not generous (though generosity is hardly a typical attribute of the cabernets anyway, except in the fucked-up New World), but it does lean more than a shade towards the tannic at the moment. Rather obviously it needs age, and plenty of it. (1/08)