Marchese Lodovico “Ornellaia” 1996 Bolgheri “Superiore” (Tuscany) – A slick European playboy in an impossibly expensive suit, with a jutting jaw, gelled hair, and a just so shadow of precisely-manicured whiskers. Yet the suit, the hair, and the grooming wrap an entity without substance or interest. And worse, aside from the first highly-appealing impression, closer study reveals that the guy just isn’t that attractive after all. It’s all artifice. It’s all for show. It doesn’t mean anything, and you certainly don’t want to have a conversation with it. (6/08)
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tuscany
Parks
Villa Rosa 2004 Chianti Classico (Tuscany) – It’s been a long time since I’ve smelled a Chianti like this: strawberry, game, a touch of herb and a little bit of earth. There’s plenty of dense structure, but it’s all nicely balanced with crisp yet persistent fruit. To drink now with the right food, perhaps, but I really think this wine would prefer a little time in the cellar. Classic Chianti, and immensely appealing to those of us who have almost forgotten what that’s like. (5/08)
rBGH
Bianchi “Castello di Monsanto” 1995 “Tinscvil” (Tuscany) – Dull fruit, obvious and thick-headed with no discernable individuality; a sort of white noise of Tuscan wine. It could easily just be too young, but it’s not saying anything of interest at the moment. 24 hours of air don’t help. Nor do 48, after which the wine starts to oxidize. (4/08)
Pen-Ambra
Ambra 1996 Carmignano “Riserva Elzana” (Tuscany) – Corked. (4/08)
Heba, Heba, don’t dream it’s over
Magliano 2004 Morellino di Scansano “Heba” (Tuscany) – Spoofy. Deep, dark, caramelized cherry bark and vanilla-slathered jam, creamy and lush with overbearing structure and all signs of life pummeled to a brutal death by the sheer ponderousness of it all. (4/08)
Tasso tea
Antinori “Guado al Tasso” 2003 Bolgheri “Superiore” (Tuscany) – Plum-flavored Port. Over-concentrated. Tannic and dull as hell. What is the point of wines like this? (2/08)
Tignanellos bounce!
Antinori 2004 “Tignanello” (Tuscany) – International to its core, showing big blueberry and blackberry, albeit with surprising acidity. The finish is short, and it’s far simpler than it should be at this price, but the balance is at least acceptable. If one must drink this sort of wine, this isn’t a bad one to try. (2/08)
George the first
Giampaolo Motta 2003 “Giorgio Primo” (Tuscany) – Acidic strawberry, some good raw materials, but massive, overwhelming tannin obliterates most of what’s drinkable. I can’t possibly assess something this out of balance. (2/08)
Is it a castle or a villa?
Castell’in Villa 1995 Chianti Classico “Riserva” (Tuscany) – Dense. Strawberry and herbal dirt, with dense (actually, thoroughly solid) tannin. A bit hard, but long. Needs continued aging. (2/08)
Am I blu?
Brancaia 2003 “Il Blu” (Tuscany) – Sour wood, dill, weeds, and hints of red fruit. Very dense, but with what? The finish is long and dusty. (2/08)