Constantia Uitsig 2005 Méthode Cap Classique Brut Blanc de Blancs (Constantia) – Highly polished, and presenting itself with sophistication rather than ego. Clean, dry lemon forms a tight cylindrical core, around which are layers of delicate foil that don’t obscure transparency. Finely-beaded and quite impressive. Still, what I’d really love to do is revisit this after a few years, because it’s very primary. (11/08)
sparkling
Lini back
Lini “Labrusca” 2007 Lambrusco Bianco (Emilia-Romagna) – White flower petals, sweet green melon. Light and lively, but old-timey…an incandescent bulb radiating white light with a touch of yellow. Fun. (2/09)
Bjana boat
Bjana 2002 Brut (Goriška Brda) – An intriguing blend of rebula (a/k/a ribolla gialla) and chardonnay. Alas that the wine does not live up to the intrigue (and in any case, I’d need some convincing that rebula is a good grape for sparkling wine production). Very lightly sweet with somewhat obvious fruit. Fizzy, pleasant, big, and unrefined. Not even really a brawler…more of an oaf. But a friendly one. (10/07)
Cap’n
Villiera Méthode Cap Classique Brut Rosé “Tradition” (Stellenbosch) – Soft strawberry with a brace of acidity trailing in its wake. Short, though. Dry, clean, and pleasant, but most certainly not special. (11/08)
Lini tower of Pisa
Lini “Labrusca” Lambrusco Bianco (Emilia-Romagna) – Fragrant. Green apples, acidity, and fun lightness. My first white Lambrusco; I didn’t even know they existed until I saw this bottle. (12/08)
Don’t be a Daumas
Guibert de la Vassière “Mas de Daumas Gassac” Rosé Frizant Brut (Languedoc) – Cherry Kool-Aid, and not in a good way. Completely candied and confected. Two sips are about all you’ll ever want. (1/09)
If the Zusslin fits
Zusslin Crémant d’Alsace Brut (Alsace) – If stones shed their skins, they could have been fermented into a wine much like this. Sharp and hollow, with traces of apple and a loose froth. Lacks presence. (12/08)
Flic a Bixio
Bixio 2005 Prosecco (Veneto) – Wretched. Acrid, nasty, volatile, bitter, and just plain no good. (1/09)
R. Lady of the bubbles
Paul Goerg 2000 Champagne Brut “Cuvée Millésimée” “R. Lady” (Champagne) – Mandarin and strawberry hull. Can that be right? I find it difficult to embrace this wine – or maybe it’s the other way ‘round – and I’m not sure it ever achieves cohesion. The bubbles are a little clumsy, as well. Even middling Champagne tends to be appealing enough, but this is something I’m not particularly eager to retry. (12/08)
Hannibal Nectar
Moët & Chandon Champagne “Nectar Impérial” (Champagne) – Fruit-sweet, with only the barest suggestion of Champagne-ness. I suppose this appeals to label drinkers, but why not just choose moscato d’Asti, which is more flavorful, more fun, and much cheaper? (12/08)