Browse Tag

pinot noir

Remini

[logo]Seresin 2005 Pinot Noir “Leah” (Marlborough) – A multi-vineyard blend done with wild yeast and new wood. Earthy beet, dark plums and berries, lightness and intensity paired; this is a fine pinot. It lacks that final layer of complex sophistication that would send it into the pinot stratosphere (the pinotsphere?), but it’s nicely formed, structured, balanced, and ready to drink both now and in five-plus years. I’d lean towards the latter, because the dark moodiness of the wood could use some time to integrate. (5/08)

Arthur Jackson

[vineyard]Two Paddocks 2006 “Picnic” Pinot Noir (Central Otago) – Clean, with good earthiness, stones, and soil underlying dark plums. Simple (as is it’s intent), and good. (2/08)

sqrt(Mahi-Mahi)

Mahi 2006 Pinot Noir (Marlborough) – Sweet earth, orange and golden beets, and a lot of – perhaps too much – structure. It’s a bit hard. (2/08)

1 if by Landt, 2 if by Scea

[vineyard]Staete Landt 2005 Pinot Noir (Marlborough) – Green and pink, with spiky acidity. Other than the brief foray into blended peppercorns, however, this is an absent wine. (2/08)

Charlton Heston

Swan “Mad House” 2006 Pinot Noir Clearview (Bendigo) – Finally, we get a wine carrying the appellation of the ocean of vineyards that make up the Central Otago’s “secret” supply. It’s structured and mineralistic, but lacks generosity. (2/08)

Selection bias

Kaimira Estate 2004 Pinot Noir (Nelson) – Bright cranberry with a touch of fennel. It’s like pinot noir juice more than wine, and though it’s a touch screechy, it’s fun and crisp, and undoubtedly benefits from a good chill. Nice enough in its style, though I wouldn’t trot it out for fine dining. (3/05)

Kaimira Estate 2004 “Vintner’s Selection” Pinot Noir (Nelson) – Just bottled, and still tight…maybe even a little bit volatile. There’s mint and other herbs, and then an explosion of full-bodied red berries. This wash of summery fruit is clean and lustrous, while in the background a keening wail of minerality grows. Very, very young at the moment, but seemingly excellent. (3/05)

The Roederer less traveled

[vineyard & winery]Roederer Estate 1998 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley) – Strawberry, tarragon, and tin with wood ear mushrooms. The slightly sickly fruit-sweetness of New World pinot is partially in evidence here, though the wine is pleasantly small-boned, with a pretty face and a surprisingly long finish. Though just a bit of tannin remains, I think this is probably as long as you’d want to hold this wine. (4/08)

What’s white and red all over?

Laurent Barth 2006 Pinot d’Alsace “100% Pinot Noir” (Alsace) – Yes, it’s a “white” pinot noir, though the color is actually closer to red-tinged bronze. I’ve seen pinot gris almost this dark, after extended skin contact, but this wine comes by its unusual color more naturally. And the aroma is that of a really fine blend of spiced pear pinot gris and red-fruited, floral pinot noir, leaning more towards the latter than the former. Palate-wise, it could use a lot more noir; it’s fat and thick, like a pushed-ripeness gris, with little compensating acidity. It’s a fascinating oddity, and one for blind tastings, but it’s fairly boring after the first glass. (4/08)

Tasmanian Devil

[map]Tamar Ridge “Devil’s Corner” 2004 Pinot Noir (Tasmania) – Lacking torque and substance, this exists as a kind of rough presentation of the dirty side of pinot noir; dark, under-fruited berries and some mushroomy bark. There’s nothing bad about it, except its indifference. (4/08)