Browse Tag

pinot blanc

You better, you better, Albrecht

Jean Albrecht 2006 Pinot Blanc “Réserve” (Alsace) – Starts better than it finishes. Basic apricot and spiced cream, with nothing rising above a minimal volume. Pleasant for a few moments, but the finish is essentially absent. (12/08)

Pinot & Zooty

Trimbach 2004 Pinot Blanc (Alsace) – Supple apricot with a slight molten iron edge to it, and there’s acidity, yet the wine is largely free of edges, corners, or bends. I don’t quite know how they work this voodoo. As an Alsatian pinot blanc, it’s still more blanc-influenced than auxerrois-dominated and good in that paradigm, but it will never seem striking in contrast to, say, a Boxler. (7/08)

Drunken stork

Mallo 2004 “Special Delivery” Pinot Blanc (Alsace) – Clean, water-washed stone fruit leaning on the lighter, crisper side of things, with a bit of citrus and a light tarragon note, but with weight and spice coalescing in the denouement. Tasty. Not complex, but quite enjoyable. (6/08)

Blanc in blanc

[vineyard]Albert Seltz 2006 Pinot Blanc “Réserve” (Alsace) – Nicely balanced between light stone fruit and heavier spice, perhaps with a leavening touch of residual sugar. Very drinkable. (5/08)

Blanc adder

Adelsheim 2006 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley) – Fennel and minerals, with a fine spiciness. Light but firm. Tasty. (2/08)

Stoeffler your face

[vineyard & village]Stoeffler 2005 Pinot Blanc (Alsace) – Crisp and apple-dominated, with winter melon and a touch of Thai basil. It doesn’t taste like there’s much auxerrois here, but if so it’s underripe and not a factor. Crisp and juicy turns to wan and watery on the finish; the surplus of acidity is refreshing with food but the rest of the wine disappears. So leave it as a tart cocktail wine and you’ll do OK. (4/08)

A valuable lesson

[label]Frick 2002 Pinot Blanc “Cuvée Précieuse” (Alsace) – Organic, biodynamic, no sulfur, from a hill above the Vorbourg. This has absolutely nothing to do with pinot blanc or Alsace (other than the fact that the words are on the label), and instead has everything to do with the sort of “forward-to-the-past” adventurism seen at, say, Radikon…among whose wines this would not seem even a little out of place. Rapidly darkening towards brass (though to be fair, that’s not an unusual thing to see in a five-year-old pinot blanc), heavy, and somewhat oxidized – again in the “good” way, though it strips any remaining varietal character from the wine – with a solid, thudding, and thundering assault of dried-out stone fruit and hollowed-out acacia logs. A really fascinating wine, though I’m very much at a loss as to whether I should credit the result or not. The first sips are immediately compelling to those familiar with this style (and, based on my dinner guests’ reactions, repellent to those who aren’t), but even to the enthusiastic the weight and ponderous hectoring of the wine eventually grow wearisome. (3/08)


Trimbach 2004 Pinot Blanc (Alsace) – Sharp grapefruit with vivid spice. More crisp than usual. This might have a limited upside, as some of the better pinot blanc vintages do chez Trimbach, and it’s a pretty good effort overall. (5/06)

White Willow

André Blanck 2004 Pinot Blanc Rosenburg (Alsace) – Gentle and somewhat timid, showing stone fruit and a little acidity, but not much in the way of a defining character or statement. Not that one should expect too much from pinot blanc, but still… (12/07)

Huggy bear

[vineyard]Hugg 2006 Pinot Blanc (Alsace) – Pear and thin apricot, which are fine as far as they go. But why is this so sweet? Someone like Boxler gets away with this sort of residual sugar because their wines are so intense and laden with flavor. This, on the other hand, is a traditionally light-bodied pinot blanc, and the sugar just makes it taste insipid. (12/07)