Mabileau 2005 St-Nicholas de Bourgueil Les Rouillères (Loire) – Very structured (no one could miss this wine’s ageability), yet the raw materials take a while to emerge. On day one, this is thickly tannic and presenting only a wavering herbal darkness in response. Day two brings more fullness, and though thyme, bell pepper and freshly-tilled earth persist alongside cloudy tannin, they achieve greater balance and harmony amongst the whole. I think this will be quite good someday, but it’s a highly particular and difficult wine right now. Wait on it. (12/07)