Browse Tag


Loisium stade

Steininger 2010 Grüner Veltliner Loisium “Reserve” (Kamptal) – Restrained and a bit sweaty, leaving its green-hued, white peppery-fruit somewhat exposed to erosion. Finishes fairly long, but said finish is very linear. Just OK. (8/12)

Traminer girls

Steininger 2008 Traminer Sekt (Kamptal) – The heady aromatics of traminer, frothy and slightly sticky, given lift and then weighted down a bit by their more fantastical whims. It’s a very fun wine. (6/12)


Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg “Gobelsburger” 2010 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal) – Eminently pleasant whites and greens, light but with insistence and a measured length. The faintest dusting of whit pepper, perhaps, but mostly this relies on riper forms of straightforward grüneresque fruit, though not the lush lavishness of which the grape is capable when pushed. There’s sufficient acidity for short-term holding, but actual aging is something I probably wouldn’t try except in a purely speculative way. (12/11)

Hasel & Grentel

Eichinger 2006 Hasel Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal) – Just beyond the basic, pepper-and-froth profile of the grüner I keep reading was poured from casks in Austrian bars (I wouldn’t know, I’ve never been in one) into something just a little juicier and creamier, but still edgy. Overall light-bodied, with a refreshing lift to it. Simple, clean fun. (8/11)

The maison of mugs

Steininger 2006 Riesling Steinhaus (Kamptal) – Mostly firm wet-mineral “fruit,” salts and dried apple dust in place, but it gets just a bit sloppy at the fringes and as it tails. (7/11)

Ina Kirchengarten

Bründlmayer 1979 Grüner Veltliner Kirchengarten (Kamptal) – Powerfully fizzy, so much so that were there any other sign I’d worry that this was refermenting in the bottle. As it is, there’s so much pétillance that the table discussion is over to what extent this was a deliberate winemaking choice; a little early prickle isn’t unexpected from this house, but at this age the outright froth is a little shocking. So what else? Celery, still, but fossilizing into a mineral form. Salt, kelp-infused. A brightness, as well, but the light rests on decaying bones…there’s no actual weakness yet evident, but there’s a certain trembling that indicates that the wine may begin to corrode fairly soon. This – grüner of an age I very, very rarely encounter – is an absolute thrill to drink, though I admit part of the thrill is the identity, rather than just the organoleptics. (11/10)


Loimer 1997 Langenloiser Spiegel Grüner Veltliner “Alte Reben” (Kamptal) – Ripe and fairly mature, with celery and sweet apricot. Is there botrytis in this wine? Cream-textured and rich, though perhaps lacking some length. Tasty. (3/05)

Where’s the girlsberg?

[bottles]Hiedler 2000 Riesling Gaisberg (Kamptal) – Marshmallow, peat, and bay leaf. Quite advanced. Long, but soft throughout; whatever nerve this wine once had (and if I recall correctly, it wasn’t much) has left the building. I return to it several times over the course of the evening, and again the next day, but all it does is shove more stuffing into the pillow. Drink up. (4/09)

The Lamm lies down

[label]Schloss Gobelsburg 2007 Grüner Veltliner Lamm (Kamptal) – Generally round, yet pointed when it needs to be. Ripe, salted celery and mineral filings, with a rich texture akin to some sort of custard, yet sacrificing nothing in structure or balance. Finishes dryer than it seems to begin. Like drinking green sun from a glass. (12/08)

Ladiesberg is next

[label]Hirsch 2007 Riesling Gaisberg (Zöbing/Kamptal) – Completely transparent right down to its iron core, though a thickening pear syrup eventually emerges. Very light, and tart, with that sugary element not yet integrated. I don’t much care for it now, but I presume time will work some magic. (12/08)

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