Browse Tag

italy

TN: Training Prà

[label]Prà 2002 Soave Classico (Veneto) – Showing signs of maturity, as the softly perfumed fruit is stripped away in layers to reveal the soft, mineralized underbelly shot through with streaks of vivacious acidity. It’s not an aggressive wine by any means, but it’s both fuller and sharper than at release. This is at full maturity. (7/07)

TN: Brown jello

[label]Casanova di Neri 2001 Brunello di Montalcino “Tenuta Nuova” (Tuscany) – Served blind, and my guess is that it could really be just about anything from just about anywhere. Hugely concentrated – perhaps overly so – with graphite-textured tannin, very low acidity, and lush waves of rich, ripe blueberry and dark black cherry. Incredibly thick. This sort of wine has an obvious sensory appeal, but the charm doesn’t extend any farther. There’s too much stuffing, not enough form, and the wine says absolutely nothing; it just hums (very loudly) to itself. One learns everything there is to know about this wine in the very first sip. (6/07)

[label]Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 1990 Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany) – Finely structured with mixed powdered peppercorns, dried black cherry and some ash. This may be a touch on the fruitless side, but then it’s poured immediately after a fruit bomb, so it’s hard to tell. Really nice, otherwise. (6/07)

TN: Via Veneto

Quintarelli 1994 Valpolicella Classico “Superiore” (Veneto) – Smoky, showing midpalate fatness and a texture that billows between leather and satin. There’s quartz at the core. Concentrated, beautiful and long. I’m not sure there’s much Valpolicella character here anymore, however. (6/07)

TN: The Nervi of some people

[vineyard]Nervi 1990 Gattinara Vigneto Molsino (Piedmont) – Crushed soy flakes, smashed roses, and blackened, crunchy cereal. A little crusty. This is sort of an angry old man, and yet somehow it’s compelling as well. Strange. (6/07)

TN: Joe

[valpolicella]Allegrini 2001 Veronese “Palazzo della Torre” (Veneto) – Big and obvious, with highly-structured skins and char, but very little that’s appealing. (6/07)

TN: Mastroberardino of their domain

[label]Mastroberardino 2004 Greco di Tufo “NovaSerra” (Campania) – Surprisingly juicy. Ash-dusted green berries and whitewashed lemon are given lift by slick acidity. It’s a very tasty wine, but somehow seems to lack soul. Maybe age will help matters. (6/07)

TN: Here, here

[vineyard]Neirano Brachetto d’Acqui (Piedmont) – Simple strawberry and powdered sugar froth. More basic than these (already typically basic) wines tend to be, but with the vague sensation of something mineralistic underneath. If they could only bring out this character, they’d have a beauty on their hands. (6/07)

TN: Gravner robber

Gravner 2001 Ribolla Gialla “Amfora” (Venezia Giulia) – Tannic, showing black cherry, mineral salts, and grey-white, chalky earth. (Note for the unclear: this is a white wine.) It’s long, with great balanced and structure; full-bodied and wonderful. A complex masterwork, though I suppose it’s worth noting that it tastes pretty much only of itself. Stunning. (5/07)

TN: I rancia so far away

[bottle]Fèlsina “Berardenga” 1995 Chianti Classico Riserva “Rancia” (Tuscany) – Whipped strawberries squeezed into granite. Very structured, with thick, barky tannin, but of a texturally appealing kind…coarse-grained satin, perhaps. This is a beautiful wine showing signs of both primary fruit and developing maturity, and I don’t think it’s anywhere near done aging. It’s on the more muscular side, certainly, but gives up nothing essential for it. (6/07)

TN: Clivi together

[label]Clivi 2002 Collio Goriziano “Brazan” (Friuli) – Extremely austere and almost tasteless at first opening. As it airs, it develops (very slowly) a magisterial air, regal and refined, showing windblown mineral dust and a powerful crescendo of intensity. The basic error was mine: I should have decanted it for a half-day, at least. Possibly longer. But there’s every indication that this is a stunner, for anyone who can exhibit some patience. (5/07)