Domaine du Trapadis 1998 Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Rasteau (Rhône) – I have low expectations for this bottle, held beyond what I’d planned at purchase, but it surpasses them with its surly, low-bred Rasteau-ishness. One can’t, I guess, keep a burnt grenache blend down. And yes, there is that lingering char – almost barbecue-like – that bridges truly old-style Rasteau and the cleaner modern versions, mopped with sticky purple fruit gum and then spiced up a bit. This bottle was undoubtedly better a few years ago, as the dust is starting to settle on the bones, but it’s lingering pretty well. (12/11)