Rivuera Orebic “Korta Katarina” 2006 Plavac Mali (Peljesac Peninsula) – A Croatian cou-zin owned and brought into the nethers of central Minnesota by Scandinavian locals. Gotta be a terrible vanity project, right? Not so. Oh, there’s a faint whiff of eye-on-the-market winemaking here, but it’s faint, and what’s most impressive is the old-style zinnishness of it; big bursts of black fruit, in berried tones both familiar and un-, with sprightly microburst acidity and a rollicking undertow of pure fun. If domestic zin still tasted like this, people would drink a lot more of it. And if you’re in the Brainerd Lakes area (and who among my readers isn’t?), go get some. (7/12)