Browse Tag


Sattler brothers

[label]Sattler 2006 St. Laurent “Reserve” (Burgenland) – Aromatic with crushed petals and leaves, beets, and herbs. Limpid yet intense, with a beautiful texture. However, there’s also some butter and vanilla on the finish that doesn’t integrate, with some bitterness (oak tannin, perhaps). The wood’s too present now, but the wine retains its promise. (12/08)

Repent, Sinner!

[label]Prieler 2007 Chardonnay Sinner (Burgenland) – Melon, ripe and clean, with the aromatics of a big-fruited wine, but the acid balance and purity of a leaner expression of the grape. There are hints of banana (native rather than industrial), but rather than falling over into tropicality, the mineral lacings of this wine eventually tie it up in a fine bow. Alas, that chardonnay doesn’t usually taste like this. (12/08)

Ladiesberg is next

[label]Hirsch 2007 Riesling Gaisberg (Zöbing/Kamptal) – Completely transparent right down to its iron core, though a thickening pear syrup eventually emerges. Very light, and tart, with that sugary element not yet integrated. I don’t much care for it now, but I presume time will work some magic. (12/08)

The Lamm lies down

[label]Schloss Gobelsburg 2007 Grüner Veltliner Lamm (Kamptal) – Generally round, yet pointed when it needs to be. Ripe, salted celery and mineral filings, with a rich texture akin to some sort of custard, yet sacrificing nothing in structure or balance. Finishes dryer than it seems to begin. Like drinking green sun from a glass. (12/08)


Hiedler 2007 Weissburgunder “Maximum” (Kamptal) – Massive and ripe, yet despite the power and weight giving an impression of utter dryness (which impression may, for all I know, be false). An initially overwhelming avalanche of crushed bones is followed by mirrorball-faceted minerality, sparkling and pulsing. Decrescendos rapidly, but stunning while it lasts. The importer calls this “the best pinot blanc in the world.” It’s not – the finish needs to be longer for that – but it’s certainly in the top rank. (12/08)

Schrock to the system

[label]Schröck 2007 Weissburgunder (Austria) – White-out minerality, leaves, and…parsnips? That’s a new thing for me, at least in a wine. Soft and easy, with a finish much shorter than it should be. No “fruit” as such, but the bare, calcifying exoskeleton of a wine, which has a certain but limited appeal. (12/08)

George Gobelsburg

[label]Schloss Gobelsburg Brut “Reserve” (Austria) – A blend of pinot noir, riesling, and grüner veltliner. Wet and sour with green pear and apple. Finely beaded, with hints of gunshot. Leafy. Powdery, ground-level dust and extremely sour watermelon come to dominate the finish, like a too-old Jolly Rancher (but dry). Fairly complex, long, and very tart. (12/08)

Bründl of joy

[label]Bründlmayer Brut Rosé (Austria) – Pink and soft, with electrified crystal flowers that re-soften on the finish. A bit girly in its pinkish Hello Kitty-ness. Spun candy on the finish. Frothy. I’m not a fan. (12/08)

Schröck & awe

[vineyard]Heidi Schröck 2006 Muscat (Austria) – Actually 40% gelber muskateller, 40% sauvignon blanc, and 20% muscat ottonel. Quite reduced (under screwcap), and offensively stinky when first opened; this takes a good long while to blow off, and I’m not sure it ever quite abandons the wine. Nor am I a fan of the blend…the sauvignon has all its sharp edges filed off by the muscat, while the muscat delivers a pale shadow of its usual aromatic exuberance thanks to the guillotine effect of the sauvignon blanc. Is there a point to this wine? (12/08)

Schloss & found

[vineyard]Schloss Gobelsburg Brut “Reserve” (Langenlois) – Grass (with dew) and wet green apple. Ripe and fruity (mostly lemon), with big acidity. Fine, but a bit obvious. (6/08)