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Put a Hefeabzug in your ear

[nikolaihof hefeabzug]Nikolaihof 2001 Grüner Veltliner Hefeabzug (Wachau) — The dangers of pop-and-pour: the first taste, straight out of the neck, portended oxidation and weakness. After fifteen minutes, however, this was singing. Not full-throttle — it no longer has that much gas — but in pure, clear tones. Minerality, fossilized vegetation, plenty of nerve…and, surprise!…a lot of fun to drink. It disappears very, very quickly. (9/16)

Sekt & zweigeltness

Steininger 2008 Zweigelt Sekt (Austria) – Zweigelt is a grape that, while it maintains a Teutonic reserve and stiff upper, usually seems to be barely restraining a little explosion of laughter. Only the ravages of heavy wood and international blending grapes can really repress the undercurrent of fun. On the other hand, it’s possible to release too many inhibitions, and that’s what I feel is going on here. Tutti-frutti berries, an almost candied sweet-tartness, and an overdose of affected fun. While the medium-dark froth is a fun party guest, you’ll soon find yourself looking elsewhere for interesting conversation. (8/12)

Netzl logic

Netzl 2009 “Carnuntum Cuvée” (Carnuntum) – Zweigelt, blaufränkisch, merlot. And that’s what it tastes like: a lot of elevated, appealing florality given some leaden thickness by a grape that neither of the others really needs. Though I suppose Netzl’s judgment of need is here less related to the organoleptics than the market. It’s a nice enough wine, though. (8/12)

Loisium stade

Steininger 2010 Grüner Veltliner Loisium “Reserve” (Kamptal) – Restrained and a bit sweaty, leaving its green-hued, white peppery-fruit somewhat exposed to erosion. Finishes fairly long, but said finish is very linear. Just OK. (8/12)

Stray cat strut

Setzer 2006 Kreimelberg Roter Veltliner (Weinviertel) – I usually find roter veltliner a bit weird, and this is no exception. It’s as if grüner veltliner and Alsatian pinot gris had some sort of illicit vineyard union, because the fruit takes on an almost powdery, raspberry sorbet-like tone. I like it, but it keeps gesturing towards sweetness that might not be there, and thus functions as if it is in fact sweet; remember this when considering food matches, or do as I did and serve it as a fun apéritif. (8/12)

Don’t ask zwei

Bründlmayer 2010 Zweigelt (Weinland) – Not a 750 ml, but instead a one-liter bottle, which is the perfect size for such an incredibly easy-drinking wine. Gentle blackberry, soft structure, hints of nerve without getting on any…the wine drains itself from the glass, until the bottle’s gone. And by the way, we need more liters of zweigelt. (7/12)

When Vogelsang, I hear violins

Heidi Schröck 2007 Ried Vogelsang (Austria) – 25% each welschriesling, weissburgunder, grauburgunder, and furmint. Overly-sweet for what else is provided, and pretty insipid. Just kinda sits there, limp..(6/12)

My bell

Meinklang 2011 Traminer (Burgenland) – Spiced pear, green rose, a bit of vinyl. Sappy, but also short, which somewhat mars the effect. It’s pleasant, though. (6/12)

Traminer girls

Steininger 2008 Traminer Sekt (Kamptal) – The heady aromatics of traminer, frothy and slightly sticky, given lift and then weighted down a bit by their more fantastical whims. It’s a very fun wine. (6/12)