Browse Month

December 2008

It’s a fair Kanonkop

[vineyard]Kanonkop 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch) – By reputation and critical response, this is the worst version of this wine that Kanonkop’s made in many years. And yes, it’s a little scratchy and advanced. But I find the minor greenness, touched with a dusting of white pepper, appealing in contrast to modern cabernet’s distorted lushness (not that lushness is something from which this wine regularly suffers), and in fact the wine’s balance is better than its reputation would indicate. I wouldn’t hold it any longer, though, and I think food – something with fat – is essential. (12/08)

Goodstube, Badstube

Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 017 08 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – Deceives with simplicity, but peering into the wine’s innards results in a rather stern return glare from dark, coal-like minerality and amber-encased golden raspberries. Still very young, obviously. The finish could be longer. (12/08)

R. Lady of the bubbles

Paul Goerg 2000 Champagne Brut “Cuvée Millésimée” “R. Lady” (Champagne) – Mandarin and strawberry hull. Can that be right? I find it difficult to embrace this wine – or maybe it’s the other way ‘round – and I’m not sure it ever achieves cohesion. The bubbles are a little clumsy, as well. Even middling Champagne tends to be appealing enough, but this is something I’m not particularly eager to retry. (12/08)

Roman Colosía

Guitiérrez Colosía “Elcano” Fino Sherry (Jerez) – From 375 ml. Very, very fresh-tasting, in a way that almost transports me to Spain. That said, I’m not entirely sure what I’m tasting. Bony and yet overly affable, like a skeletal puppy leaping at one’s palate, there’s an upfront intensity paired with an airy hollowness that I can’t quite wrap my head around. (12/08)

In the year 2000

Trimbach 2000 Riesling (Alsace) – Fully mature, with a cold, iron-flake minerality paired with creamy apricot skin. I suspect the latter is an artifact of a riper vintage, because this wine’s usually a little more stark with age. (12/08)

A Marchesi shade of winter

Marchesi di Barolo 2003 Barolo (Piedmont) – Kind of a nebbiolo-bomb, full of appealing dark fruit and wrapped in a lush, almost gelatinous texture. A little overcooked, perhaps. It’s not what I think of as Barolo, but as a non-specific wine it’s tasty enough. (12/08)

Must’a got Aoste

[vineyard]Institut Agricole Régional 2005 Petit Rouge (Vallée d’Aoste) – Arctic red, restrained, and icy, with a chill wind racing through its core. Ground-up red fruit with hints of black minerality. It seems like it will never achieve full liquidity, but on the slowly devolving finish, there’s eventually a brief melt of succulence. An interesting wine, though not a particularly significant one. (12/08)

Floc of seagulls

Bordeneuve-Entras/Maestrojuan Floc de Gascogne (Southwest France) – A very old bottle, and open for far, far longer than the ideal, so consider the note that follows in that context. Fierce alcohol over mixed nut liqueurs, spiced raisins, and prunes. Intact, this might have been rather striking. Even in highly oxygenated/decrepit form, it’s quite impressive. (12/08)

Better than

Ezra Brooks Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (America) – Very peachy. Sweet oak without impediment, sweet fruit, but not “sweet” in overall aspect. Very simple, with a nasal bite of alcohol. Quite drinkable, but sorta formless. (12/08)