JJ Prüm 1990 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 13 91 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – Pretty much dead to the world, though seemingly not “dead” in the sense of being over the hill. Corked? If so, no one’s picking it up. Could be anything, really. (4/08)
May 2008
Sister, sister
Monastero Suore Cistercensi S.O. Trappiste 2006 “Coenobium” (Lazio) – Precise and yet full of dancing flavor; perhaps it’s most accurate to say that it starts with purer intentions than it eventually reveals. Pine and rosemary dominate up front, but then matters broaden to waxier, more exotic floral/spicy aromas. A lovely wine. (4/08)
Monastero Suore Cistercensi S.O. Trappiste 2005 “Coenobium” (Lazio) – The exoticism of this wine here extends to the texture, which is decidedly silky but aggravatingly elusive. There’s more fruit than in the 2006, with lots of minerality, but the overall effect is somewhat less exciting. Still, it’s a very good wine, at a very good price. (4/08)
Rare form
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1988 Champagne Brut “Rare” (Champagne) – Sweet and fruity, dominated by strawberry and lemon. It’s ripe but simple. Not much more to say, really; Veuve remains, for me, a disappointing house. All the more so for their popularity. (4/08)
Heid and sieck
Charles Heidsieck 1990 Champagne Brut (Champagne) – Corked. (4/08)
What’s good for the gueuze is good for the gander
Girardin “1882” Gueuze Lambic (Belgium) – Really good, with sharp acidity and a minor baritone of brett, yet balanced (for the style), retaining a pure core of tart cherry dust. (4/08)
BBQ beer
Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier (Germany) – Crisper and more refreshing, and though the smoke dominates (naturally), there’s actual beer present as well; a feat of balance rarely achieved in this style. Overall, despite the char, it’s a fairly light brew. (4/08)