Browse Month

May 2008

Monein changes everything

[sign in pau]It’s a miracle we’re here at all. I can only conclude that “fun” in the Languedoc involves moving signs around so that non-locals can’t find anything. Time and time again, signs point exactly in the opposite of the true direction, and eventually we end up navigating by feel and landmark, keeping the massif of the Montagne d’Alaric firmly on our right. This works until we lose sight of it, after which there’s a lot of stopping to check the Michelin map, driving to the next town, stopping to check the Michelin map…

There’s a rustic charm to the area, despite its navigational vandalism. Historic sites are strewn like litter, and with a few exceptions, villages seem not to have changed for centuries. And vines? They’re everywhere.

…continued here, and featuring a visit to Jurançon’s Domaine Cauhapé.

On the Lamm

[vineyard]Hirsch 2004 Grüner Veltliner Lamm (Kamptal) – About 25% as rich as the lush 2005, but still with plenty of weight and heft. Celery leaves, Buddha’s hand rind, coconut cream, and a fine, crisp balance with an intensity and presence. This could be better (witness the 2005), but it’s fairly classic as it stands; the only real flaw is a descent to peppery acridity in the finish. (5/08)

Black river

[vineyard]von Kesselstatt 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – As befits the terroir, minerals, minerals, and more minerals; those who like fruit in their riesling will be massively disappointed. This lacks defined edges and honed sharpness, but that might well come with age, which any decently-made wine from this site will embrace and encourage. (5/08)

Raul

Castro Bergidum 2004 Bierzo (Northwest Spain) – Disjointed, with spiky acidity and lashes of tart fruit; there’s a lot that’s good here, but none of it is interesting in cohering. Thus, the overall impression is one of angry flailing, without purpose. (5/08)

Sailin’ away to Key Campolargo

Campolargo 2005 Bairrada Arinto (Portugal) – Brilliant. Fascinating. Full of white-lit spice and intense, ground up diamond minerality, with exotic woods (not oak) and a vibrant, almost sentient texture. Terrific wine, deep and complex; a mystery inside an enigma wrapped in a puzzle. (5/08)

I Raspay with my little eye

Primitivo Quiles “Raspay” 2002 Alicante (Levant) – Deeply warming, comforting, almost enveloping. Rich, roasted redfruit and layers of elegant, complex earth with a fine-grained texture and a truly gorgeous finish. Absolutely stunning. (5/08)

Apothecary

Boch 2006 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Beerenauslese 25 07 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – Intensely sweet and intensely acidic, just as a BA should be, with a forward presentation of makrut lime and exotic jewelry-quality minerals tumbling and churning in rapids of elegant power. Poised, lengthy, perfect. And still so, so young. (5/08)

Until you come to…the North Fork in the road

Schneider 2005 Cabernet Franc “Le Breton” (North Fork) – The name is apt; while broad-shouldered and with the slightest bit of swagger, this nonetheless reminds me more of Loire franc, or perhaps satellite Bordeaux, than anything from the New World. It’s bigger and somewhat heavier, but doesn’t sacrifice the dark, scowling fruit lightened by crispness, nor the enticing leafiness, nor the significant black dirt element. A minor miracle: I’ve finally found a Long Island wine that I like. (I ask my bartender, “what’s the secret?” She responds, “just drink Schneider.” (5/08)

The extinction of the Auchs

Auchs 2006 Zweigelt (Burgenland) – When Austrian reds are performing at their best, and when the producer can resist the urge to cake on makeup, their aromatics are utterly enticing. Here, there’s herbs, dried flowers…perhaps even a touch of licorice? The palate starts out similarly dark, but then the crispness and zip come through, and it finishes lighter and cleaner than the nose would suggest. Tasty wine, though I think it would be even better with food. (5/08)

Sophie, grail

Neveu 2000 Sancerre Rouge Le Grand Fricambault (Loire) – Nicely-aging pinot, probably not far from peak, with old red fruit and mushroomy, earthy tones, plus a light and enticing core of fall leaves. This tastes more like an off-appellation Burgundy than many Sancerres; perhaps it’s the age, but I suspect things were unusual from the start. A very pretty drink. (5/08)