Browse Month

March 2008

A valuable lesson

[label]Frick 2002 Pinot Blanc “Cuvée Précieuse” (Alsace) – Organic, biodynamic, no sulfur, from a hill above the Vorbourg. This has absolutely nothing to do with pinot blanc or Alsace (other than the fact that the words are on the label), and instead has everything to do with the sort of “forward-to-the-past” adventurism seen at, say, Radikon…among whose wines this would not seem even a little out of place. Rapidly darkening towards brass (though to be fair, that’s not an unusual thing to see in a five-year-old pinot blanc), heavy, and somewhat oxidized – again in the “good” way, though it strips any remaining varietal character from the wine – with a solid, thudding, and thundering assault of dried-out stone fruit and hollowed-out acacia logs. A really fascinating wine, though I’m very much at a loss as to whether I should credit the result or not. The first sips are immediately compelling to those familiar with this style (and, based on my dinner guests’ reactions, repellent to those who aren’t), but even to the enthusiastic the weight and ponderous hectoring of the wine eventually grow wearisome. (3/08)

Summer lovin’

[logo]Copain 2005 Viognier “L’ete” (Mendocino County) – This is served to me blind, and after a brief flirtation with something white and Rhônish, I veer off in a completely wrong direction. But even if I’d stuck to my guns, I never would have guessed viognier, because there’s not much of it here. Dried flowers, perhaps, but none of the lurid, oily, aromatic explosion for which the grape is known. It’s hot and flabby, sure, and that is at least authentic, but there’s some acidity lingering about, and that can’t possibly be viognier, can it? Strange wine. Needs food. I can’t quite commit to liking it, but it’s at least interesting. (3/08)

Peyros tax

Peyros 2001 Madiran “Vieilles Vignes” (Southwest France) – A half-hour’s decanting is really all that’s needed here, as the wine bursts forth from the container with deep, dark, only slightly brutal black fruit. There’s a hint of char and a good deal of forceful weight. After a while, everything appealing goes away and one is left with the expected mouth-puckering tannin, but what’s interesting (or disturbing, depending on one’s point of view) is that the hard tannin and the big fruit never take the stage at the same time; the fruit is the opening act, while the tannin is the headliner, and there’s no encore jamming. I think it will age, but something seems “off” about the fundamental conception of this wine, and so I’m not sure. (3/08)

If Ulivi now, you’ll take away the biggest part of me

Bellotti “Cascina degli Ulivi” 2006 Gavi (Piedmont) – I misjudged this at a recent tasting, thinking it more simple and easily understood than it actually is. There’s an awful lot going on for a relatively inexpensive, “basic” version of a wine that receives a more elaborate elsewhere at this house. Melon, a swirling blend of white and green tea leaves, full of light and life but with the gentle swish of a foamy, early-morning wave in the mix as well. Really nice. (3/08)

Westmallerats

[beer]Westmalle Trappist Ale Tripel (Belgium) – This seems less than it used to be, though that may just be my constantly-evolving palate. It’s heavy, spicy, and tasty, full of spiced pear liqueur and brighter, coriander-infused zest, but it shows malted up front and rather wan at the rear. A very good ale, with plenty of heft (and certainly a powerful wallop of alcohol) but also somewhat rote. (3/08)

Pira Nerys

[label]Pira 2006 Dolcetto d’Alba (Piedmont) – Striking in its intensity, with a blend of darker-hued berries and Cajun earthiness brought forward by the persistent press of a wall of structure. It’s not overwhelming by any means, and despite the size there’s a fine sense of balance, but it’s really just very, very big. I like it a great deal, but it won’t necessarily appeal to every purist. Oh…and isn’t it time to put the “little sweet one” story of this grape to rest once and for all? (3/08)

Gentilhombre

JP&F Becker 2004 “Gentil” (Alsace) – Malic steel, such that it tastes like riesling more than anything else. It’s a crisp, wet, juicy, thirst-inducing wine that bears not even the slightest hint of examination, for in truth everything other than the first refreshing burst of acidity, there’s not a whole lot to this wine. I’d happily drink it, but I’m not sure I’d buy it. (3/08)

Eros

[label]Ramazzotti Amaro (Lombardy) – Probably my least favorite amaro thus far in my post-Sicilian explorations. Bitter, lightly sweet, but with nothing to add complexity or interest aside from the basic structure of the form. Eminently boring. (3/08)

Zamò of that, please

[bottle]Le Vigne di Zamò 2004 Colli Orientali del Friuli Rosazzo Ribolla Gialla (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) – Our lightest ribolla yet, showing waxed melon on a dry bed of river gravel. Austere but pleasant, with a solid structure despite its light-bodied nature. The finish is surprisingly long, though it fails to reveal additional complexity. This could just be a little young, but while it appears to have the skeleton to age, it may lack the flesh. (10/07)

Hagia Sofia

Santa Sofia 2006 Soave Classico Montefoscarino (Veneto) – Clear and light, with a perfumed nose that veers a little too close to grandmother-ish bath soap for my tastes. The core is also a little watery. It’s pleasant, and it washes down a wide range of foods with unobtrusive aplomb, but it makes no clear statement of its own. Not even a whispered one. (10/07)