Browse Month

June 2007

TN: Bach again

Trimbach 2004 Gewurztraminer (Alsace) – Structured, pure, and flavorful, with all the classic gewürztraminer notes paired with fine acidity and a pointed acidic thrust. Delicious. (6/07)

TN: The vatted calf

[bottle]Tyrrell’s 1994 Semillon “Vat 1” (Hunter Valley) – Salty, with mixed white and green melons, lime zest, and a sweet/saline backdrop hanging over a tannic and high-acid structure. The finish is nearly endless. Marvelous! Those who mistakenly think the entire vinous output of Australia runs from massive to gihuginormous should give this a try. It is – apologies to Jamie Goode – a world-class wine. (5/07)

TN: Gravner robber

Gravner 2001 Ribolla Gialla “Amfora” (Venezia Giulia) – Tannic, showing black cherry, mineral salts, and grey-white, chalky earth. (Note for the unclear: this is a white wine.) It’s long, with great balanced and structure; full-bodied and wonderful. A complex masterwork, though I suppose it’s worth noting that it tastes pretty much only of itself. Stunning. (5/07)

TN: New Heitz

Heitz 1999 Grignolino “Port” (Napa Valley) – Can anyone actually afford to plant grignolino in Napa these days? Anyway, this was a favorite post-prandial quaffer back in my early wine-drinking days, and it tastes pretty much as I remember it: strawberry and candied/spiced apple, with a bright, smiling, simple face. Fun. Don’t overthink it. (5/07)

TN: Cask strength

Domecq Amontillado 51-1a (Jerez) – Thick. Feels sweet but tastes dry. What’s unquestionable is that it tastes salty, with drying nut skins and candied almonds in abundance. Warming and long. This is immediately appealing and yet elusive, as if it’s still holding something back. It’s miles above run-of-the-mill Sherry. (5/07)

TN: John Clessé

Guillemot-Michel 1998 Mâcon-Clessé (Mâcon) – Served blind (by me), with confused guesses. This initially appears to have great balance, with a big, juicy arrival of tangerine and orange rind, plus complexing skin bitterness on the finish. However, it quickly turns angular and ungenerous. Closed? Dying? Disappointing? The latter, for sure. (5/07)

TN: Hairy Potter

Kalin 1996 Semillon (Livermore Valley) – Lightly oxidized, but in a good way, with waxy Rainier cherry, preserved citrus rind, gravel and honeysuckle slashed by cider. The density is striking, as is the acidity, but if there’s a flaw it’s that the wine is a bit hot for the form. It won’t be for everyone, but I like it. I think. (5/07)

Kalin 1990 Sauvignon Blanc “Reserve” (Potter Valley) – Flop sweat and sweet, metal-encased apples and pine. There’s a strongly insistent note of old Sherry wood as well. This draws raves from everyone but me; I think it’s very good, but that it has reached that asymptotic old wine stage where everything tastes the same. It’s not bad because it’s at that point, but it’s not declarative either. (5/07)

TN: Overnoy and out

Overnoy 1998 Arbois Pupillin (Jura) – Served blind (by me), with guesses all over the map. Lightly cloudy, with brett, sulfur and some Pine-Sol, big acidity and an acrid backwash. At least, it’s that way at first. With some air, it cleans ups a bit, showing lemon rind and a sharp, zingy, almost pétillant character. The finish, however, is marshmallowy. I have no idea what to make of this wine. It’s simultaneously appealing and repellent. (5/07)

TN: Fleetwood Mac

Silver Springs 2003 Delaware (Seneca Lake) – Served blind; I think I guess some sort of fruit wine. It would have been preferable to somehow mask the taste rather than the label, as this shows fermented lemon-lime Pixy Stix and other sticky, sour candies, and watermelon Jolly Rancher with too much sweetness and disjointed acidity. Blech. And the less said about the owner, the better. (5/07)