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Leydier “Domaine de Durban” 2002 Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône) – 375 ml. Lighter than normal, to the extent that I think it might be closed up. Well, why not? Though it’s equally likely that it’s already falling apart. All the signature shattered quartz in a flower shop is here, with the usual addition of bright acidity and a blinding solar diffraction. This is far from the best Durban I’ve tasted, yet it’s still utterly definitive. (6/07)