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The Quechee Club – Residents at this planned community have a food minimum, so it’s a shame that this restaurant doesn’t perform at a higher level. The wine list has made tentative improvements over the last year or two (that have, recently, been most rescinded in favor of mass-market mediocrity), but unfortunately the things this kitchen does best are the most casual and basic. This is fine when one is dining on the sunny deck surrounding the bar, where the cheaply-priced food can be a terrific value, but less welcome in the slightly more formal dining room (somewhat confusingly called The Grille Room, which hardly represents the finer intentions of the place). The cooking is relentlessly tentative, somewhat sloppy, and never exciting. As I said, a real shame. It’s competition like this that allows establishments like Simon Pearce to coast towards mediocrity, which is in itself a shame. (Review based on many visits.)


Copyright © Thor Iverson