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Hemingway’s – Long the class of the local dining scene, this is a genteel, restrained restaurant with steep (for the area) prices. Does it live up to its reputation? Sometimes.

The restaurant has a deft hand with local ingredients (in which it specializes), and mostly it stays out of the way in the kitchen. When everything clicks, the flavors are pure and revelatory. But there can be consistency problems, and I can’t help the belief that the restaurant is a little overpriced for what it delivers. This is Alice Waters-ish cooking, and as such the prices don’t need to reflect high-end wizardry in the kitchen.

Wine, atmosphere and service are all top-notch…though fans of quick dining may want to look elsewhere…and the whole experience is warm, inviting and satisfying.

(Based on multiple visits over many years.)