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Emeril’s New Orleans Fish House (MGM Grand) – Almost surprisingly good. It is what you think it is from the name: New Orleans-style seafood. The ambience isn’t quite up to modern Vegas standards, and the sommelier can be a little officious, but the food – while certainly unrefined – is surprisingly solid. The wine list is reasonably long and not as egregiously overpriced as many others in this city. (2003)