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LTK Bar & Kitchen – This may have, at one time, been an actual test kitchen (of sorts) for the sprawling Legal Seafood empire; at least, when Jasper White was on the payroll, that was how it was presented. I don’t know if it still fulfills that role, or if it simply stands on its own, but what was once a dicey location is quickly becoming a potential revenue goldmine. This is now an “established” restaurant in fast-growing South Boston, and though at times it has much more of a post-work bar scene than an actual foodie presence (not surprising, given that the majority of passersby are in fact on their way home from the office), it’s a good deal more fun than the parent chain.

The focus is – surprise – seafood, and preparations range from the basic and obvious to some fairly elaborate extrapolations, usually bringing in elements from outside basic New England coastal cookery. The standard of cooking is reasonably high, though (despite the chain’s claims) I’m not always convinced that the aquatic produce is of as high a quality as it should be; it’s not bad by any means, but it could be just a little bit better, especially when it comes to bivalves.

What really makes this restaurant fun for oenophiles is the wine list, which has been selected by local wine eminence Sandy Block for extreme value and cuisine-appropriateness. He claims the lowest prices in the area, and that claim would seem to be justified, but the options aren’t merely barrel-bottom castoffs, they’re solid wines at excellent prices. Choose with abandon. (5/07)