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When Punjab opened in, of all places, Arlington, it was a momentous occasion on several levels. Despite Arlington's well-deserved reputation as an upscaling white progressive enclave full of SUVs and the nuclear families that drive them, there was some justification – Arlington Center has more than the usual share of Indian-focused businesses – a rather large number of trying-harder restaurants had come, had moderate success, and frequently gone. A relaxation of liquor laws helped, but despite full-contact friction with Cambridge and a density more akin to Somerville than, say, Lexington, Arlington really is a ‘burb in the minds of most urbanites. And who goes to the ‘burbs for dinner?

What really shook the “ethnic” division of the local restaurant scene, however, was that Punjab was good. Not world-class, but regularly and clearly better than most of the more urban alternatives. Spicing was more vivid, dishes were more intense, the usually greasy-glop-on-rice was unquestionably less gloppy, and service (routinely awful in local Indian joints) was an uptick or two better.

The other reason for celebration, of course, was that I lived in Arlington at the time.

Punjab has, in its turn, been qualitatively surpassed by Tamarind Bay, but being the second best Indian restaurant in the area – and the one that still has one ear glued to the standards – is hardly a matter for shame or recrimination. Ordering advice: the more unfamiliar the dish, the more likely it is to be prepared with enthusiasm. And save room for dessert, which is given special and unusual emphasis here in family-friendly Arlington.

(Based on frequent visits over several years, and written in January of 2006.)