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The restaurant at Hôtel du Commerce in Saint-Gaudens is decorated both in the knick-knacky, marché aux puces style so common to rural French restaurants and in the more elegant, restrained, but characterless style so common to hotel restaurants. It’s a little odd, to be honest, though I suppose the combination is a form of character in itself. The food is highly regional, and despite a rather pathetic wine list, I’m looking forward to a hearty, satisfying meal.

Unfortunately, it doesn’t work out that way. Overcooked salmon is followed by overcooked duck breast, and the latter is not saved by its accompaniment of fine in-season girolles. A gésier salad is much better, however, and a regional, duck-laden take on cassoulet is as satisfying as it is outsized, but this is still only a 50% hit rate. Given that all of the dishes are presented in their most canonized, ossified, Laroussean form, there’s little excuse for such indifferent execution. (10/06)