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La Flamme Café (6, avenue Wagram) – Near Étoile, where we’ve ended up after a few hours’ strolling, the dining options are pretty much limited to overpriced touristy and le fast food. But we have to eat soon or skip lunch entirely, given the shape of the rest of our day. So we resign ourselves to the former and settle in at this garishly-decorated establishment for a quick plate or two. The waiter is concerned when I order steak tartare (“vous connaissez?” he asks, with furrowed brow), which is nice of him, but the result is actually fairly creditable. The companion frites are fine, as well, with a big tub of mayonnaise alongside. It’s all more expensive than it should be (partially due to the location, but mostly thanks to our joke currency), but it satisfies a quick need. (4/06)