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Thierry “Saveurs et Cuisine” – We meet some friends – one who weekends in Metz but works in Paris, the other a couple from Luxembourg – at what passes for a modern, almost exotic entrant amongst the ultra-traditional French restaurant scene. It’s a beautiful room, the service is excellent, incense is in the air, and the food is precisely executed. Asparagus – crisp, firm, and green – is served with shaved parmesan, smoked salmon takes a Nordic turn with cream-coated zucchini cubes, and a lamb shank is lush with Indian spices. The restaurant is a good value, as well.

There is a downside, and it’s that the wine list is massively pedestrian. (4/06)