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La Côte Vermeille (quai Fanal, Port Vendres) – The address does not lie; this restaurant is at the end of a quay. And while it looks like it might be some sort of French version of a clam shack from the outside, and the semi-nautical theme continues within, the food within is anything but casual. Nor is the service, which is seriously impressive.

We start with an amuse of anchovy (a local specialty; canneries are a common roadside sight) over a tomato/pepper purée, a pure blend of Mediterranean sea and land. Vivid olives, great bread, and Échiré follow. Next up is pumpkin soup with Roquefort sorbet; visually it’s sort of a photo-negative of the interior of an egg, and it’s absolutely delicious, especially as the sorbet melts into the silken soup. More anchovies follow, this time with fresh peppers, after which is a perfect piece of dorade over cèpes and cream, classically French yet gaining all its quality from the taste of the fish. Fruit with crème anglaise provides a sweet finish. This is a terrific restaurant, by far the best we’ll visit – in France – during our five days in Collioure.

The wine list is broad, but the focus is as local as it should be. I start with an un-noted glass of Banyuls Blanc, stone-fruited, lush, and mildly sweet, and finish with a Marc de Banyuls that’s…well, let’s say it isn’t my favorite. In the middle, however, is something much better than either. (10/06)