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Brasserie Co (1, blvd Docteur Ferroul) – This corner establishment, perched in a prime location within striking distance of the canal, serves a fun, hip menu of transformed Mediterranean dishes; it struts with the youthful energy that so much of culinary France lacks, something that has been thrown into stark relief by our time in Cataluña. It’s not that the cooking here is top-flight – it’s not, but then it’s not intended to be – but it’s a shame there’s not a way to bring these two ever-more-divergent mindsets together. If French cuisine is to have a future, a way must be found.

Much of the menu has a clean simplicity that’s somewhat reminiscent of modern, fusiony “California cuisine,” though not with that movement’s steadfast concentration on top-quality ingredients. I start with a “tuna tataki” that’s in no way tataki, but still tastes refreshing over a bed of red peppers. There are richer dishes, too: a pastilla of pigeon and foie gras is full of spicy, semi-exotic brilliance. Chocolate “moelleux” is simply a lava cake with better-than-normal chocolate but slightly overcooked, though the accompanying ice cream and sauces are tasty. Coffee is confident and fine, and the service is youthful but quite competent. As for the wine list, it’s local, inexpensive, and as youthful as the staff. (10/06)