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Kimchee whiz

Part 8 of a 2010 LA travelogue

by Thor Iverson

[womensí commode]

A room of oneís own
Parkís BBQ Ė Confident, even swaggering. Thatís not just the design, nor the wallpapering of awards and press coverage in the entrance, but also the firm assurance of the proprietor that ďyouíve come to the best placeĒ as you sit. Well, I canít adjudicate that, but itís pretty awesome. Nor can I eat like this every day; Iím completely gorged when I leave. Meat over fire is the thing here, of course, both beef (heavy on the wagyu options, by the way, which is appealing in print but perhaps not best-suited to this particular presentation) and pork. As is traditional for this style of dining, the meat soon becomes almost lost in a vast ocean of accompaniments and accoutrements, many of them decidedly fiery. The meat is excellent, but itís all the ways to mess with it once itís on the plate that make Korean barbecue so incredibly delicious (and why I question the utility of Wagyu, which one is almost certainly going to overcook in this environment). Do bring your heat tolerance, because youíll need it.

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