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Tasting notes from the Boston Wine Expo. Note the usual caveats about speed-tasting in boisterous environments, where mistakes are rampant and palate fatigue is a factor. These are brief impressions, not full examinations; the phraseology reflects these conditions.

Part 7: Bordeaux

Malescot St. Exupéry 2003 Margaux (Bordeaux) – Big and tannic, but reasonably balanced for all its musculature. Elegant, lush fruit, pepper, some spice and heat on the finish. Considering the vintage, this isn’t all bad. (2/08)

Dillon “Bahans Haut-Brion” 2003 Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux) – Thick chocolate and impenetrable tannin. There’s graphite, which is a positive, and I suppose this might be good someday. (2/08)

Beauregard 2000 Pomerol (Bordeaux) – Sour wood, dill, weeds, red fruit, and dust. Structurally, this is in balance, if quite dense, but the elements in balance aren’t particularly appealing. (2/08)

Cantemerle 2000 Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux) – Bell pepper and tobacco, tight and in no mood to do anything but close up even more. Burnt coffee on the finish, which is long. This seems like it might possibly be balanced, but it’s very difficult to tell, as the wine’s in such a bad place right now. (2/08)

Pavie Macquin 1996 Saint-Émilion (Bordeaux) – Very tannic. Dark fruit. Closed and impossible. (2/08)

Valette “Troplong Mondot” 1996 Saint-Émilion (Bordeaux) – Tobacco in milk, the darkest cassis, and tannin. Long. Maybe? It’s strange, though. Could just be a stage. (2/08)

Coutet 2002 Sauternes-Barsac (Bordeaux) – Cinnamon and nutmeg. Juicy and light. To be honest, drinking Sauternes and/or Barsac at this stage is somewhat of a waste, because they never show what’s ultimately compelling about them. (2/08)

Climens 1996 Barsac (Bordeaux) – Silky lemon and orange, well-spiced. Gentle and long, though there’s a soapy note to the finish. Elegant, but the rot here isn’t quite as noble as it should be. (2/08)