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Tasting notes from the Boston Wine Expo. These were difficult tasting conditions, where speed and distraction were the norm rather than the exception. Thus, notes are brief at best, superficial, and cannot in truth be otherwise.

Bordeaux

Borie “Ducru-Beaucaillou” 1970 Saint-Julien (Bordeaux) – Gorgeous coffee and old black fruit. Leafy tobacco. Well-aged, silky, yet retaining a certain masculinity. It’s not at the absolute top of its game, but it’s awfully good. (2/07)

Tare “Giscours” 1970 Margaux (Bordeaux) – All tobacco and leather and first, then adding chocolate and black dirt. Structured, with drying tannin, but persistent. Blended peppercorns dust the finish. Beautiful, and still in the prime of its life. (2/07)

Pape-Clément 2004 Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux) – Ripe gooseberry, melon, and fresh grapes. Sweaty and very dense. Good acidity, a bit of skin tannin. Striking but a bit overdriven right now. Age might sort things out. (2/07)

Coutet 2000 Graves “Cuvée Frédéric” (Bordeaux) – Wet stones, ripe green and yellow fruit. Very mineral-infused. Quite good. (2/07)

Coutet 1997 Sauternes-Barsac (Bordeaux) – Big. Apricot, nutmeg, cinnamon, and other sweet-oriented spices. Still lithe and beautiful, but showing signs of maturing along a very pleasant path. (2/07)

Burgundy

Capitain-Gagnerot 2004 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Les Gueulottes (Burgundy) – Sweet, candied peach, apricot. Soft, with abrupt fruit, and the finish is only long because it’s sticky. Ugh. (2/07)

Maurice “Domaine de Prieure” 2002 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy) – Sour and stewed. Herbs, bark, leaves, and dirt. Dried-out finish. (2/07)

Latour 2004 Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy) – Very sulfurous, showing melon, underripe apricot, and cinnamon bark. Fat and obvious. This doesn’t appear to have positive places to go. (2/07)

Latour 2003 Château Corton Grancey “Grand Cru” (Burgundy) – Pinot noir chewing gum, texturally. Thick tarragon, strawberry, and melon wrestling in the heavyweight class. Strong and over-polished. (2/07)

Champagne

Laurent-Perrier Champagne “Cuvée Rosé Brut” (Champagne) – Srawberry, raspberry, red apple. Floral. Very light. (2/07)

Duval-Leroy 1997 Champagne “Blanc de Chardonnay” (Champagne) – Ripe lemon curd, skins, and incredible intensity. Clean, with bubbles taken down to powdery fineness. (2/07)

Duval-Leroy Champagne “Rosé de Saignée” (Champagne) – Raspberry and heirloom apples (in other words, tarter and more flavorful than most), light-styled, clean, and crisp. Biting and complex. (2/07)

Lenoble 1998 Champagne “Grand Cru” Blanc de Blancs (Champagne) – Lemon and massive appleness. Bright and sharp, though perhaps a bit obvious. (2/07)