Ridge and famousA 2004 Sonoma/San Francisco travelogue; part 5by Thor Iverson
Ridge – The newish Lytton Springs facility is gorgeous, bright, spacious, and pretty terrific. Though I do miss the old place, a bit. We arrive just before opening, and about ten minutes after the scheduled opening time, we enter with a few other assembled clusters of eager ziniacs. Ridge 2001 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains) – 14.8% alcohol. Fig, orange and vanilla in lush, intense quantities. There’s decent acidic balance, and while I personally can’t stand more than the first micro-sip, I think the relative quality is clear. Though heaven knows what fans of this style actually prefer. Ridge 2001 Mazzoni Home Ranch (Alexander Valley) – 45% zinfandel, 50% carignane, 5% petite sirah, 14.4% alcohol. Rough and rustic, showing chewy dried cranberries and even drier grapes, earthy tannin, and high acidity. Balanced, but only just, this is a reasonably extreme form of desiccated zinfandel that some will love, but many will not. I’m on the fence. Ridge 2002 Zinfandel Buchignani Ranch (Sonoma County) – 95% zinfandel, 5% petite sirah, 14.4% alcohol. Plum, raspberry, and slightly green floral aromas lift from a wine with more (and more balanced) structure. It’s juicy with supporting acidity, but things seem in order, and I think it should age reasonably well over the medium-term. Ridge 2001 Zinfandel Paso Robles (San Luis Obispo County) – 100% zinfandel, 14.5% alcohol. Raspberry juice infusing intense red-and-black licorice eau de vie, alongside vivid and slightly roasted fruit. The finish is very long. A quite impressive wine, though awfully big-assed, and lovers thereof should adore it. I, myself, can’t help but admire its width. Sir Mix-a-Lot makes a comeback! Ridge 2001 Syrah/Grenache Lytton Estate Vineyard (Dry Creek Valley) – A 50/50 blend, 14.8% alcohol. Ridge syrah, in a previous and unlamented vintage, remains the one and only non-damaged and non-overaged Ridge wine I have ever truly hated. Thus is it with considerable anxiety that I bring this to my lips. Soy, licorice, blackberry, strawberry, and blueberry bubblegum are fairly striking on a rather boozy nose, but turn shy on the palate, leaving big acidity and good structural tannin naked right through to a hide-chapping finish. Not offensive, but I just don’t get what they’re trying to do here.
Ridge 2002 Lytton Springs (Dry Creek Valley) – 75% zinfandel, 20% petite sirah, 5% carignane, 14.4% alcohol. Plum, boysenberry, blueberry, and lots of malic/apple zing with lashings of vanilla-scented oak and powdery tannin. Fresh and extremely primary, and seemingly a touch lighter than this wine has been in the past. Only a bit lighter, that is, and still quite balanced and ageable, but it’s not all that interesting right now. Shed not a tear while it heads off to nursery school; it’s time to let the little ones go. Ridge 2001 Petite Sirah “Essence” Lytton Estate (Dry Creek Valley) – 75% petite sirah, 25% zinfandel, 14.2% alcohol, 10% residual sugar. A sweaty coffeehouse – or perhaps teahouse – with juicy black plum, blueberry, and pencil shavings over a bedrock of sweet earth. Balanced and pretty, especially on the finish, though the concept of the wine is a little hard to wrap one’s head around. Hard, but provably not impossible. Ridge 2002 Geyserville (Sonoma County) – 84% zinfandel, 12% carignane, 4% petite sirah, 14.6% alcohol. Smoky, concentrated plum and forceful tannic structure, turning dark and brooding with gentle storms of wood drifting away on a long, firm finish. Very impressive, but definitely in need of significant aging to come together, shed the primary wood tones, etc. | ||||
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