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noted
Brand identification
Boxler 2009 Riesling Brand (Alsace) – A little sweet, a lot heavy, a fair bit... read more
Kruggerand
Krug Champagne Brut “Grande Cuvée” (Champagne) – Rich and heady, but... read more
Lhéraud less traveled
Lhéraud 1973 Cognac Petite Champagne (Cognac) – Forcefully classy. Like... read more
Rieston stop
Darroze “Domaine de Rieston” 1990 Bas-Armagnac (Southwest France) –... read more
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Serene republic
Domaine Serene 2006 Pinot Noir “Evenstad Reserve” (Willamette Valley) – This is a winery that receives an enormous amount of attention, and while an unfortunate percentage of it is self-generated, an equally unfortunate amount is decidedly uncomplimentary…both in reaction to …
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Tagged domaine serene, oregon, pinot noir, red, willamette valley
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Chehalem, which hunt?
Chehalem 2009 Dry Riesling “Reserve” (Willamette Valley) – Surprisingly vibrant up front, solid in the middle, but it tails off into confusion. Ripe, well-buffed crystalline minerality, fruit more of the pear than apple realm, and nicely balanced. If that finish …
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Tagged chehalem, oregon, riesling, screwcap, white, willamette valley
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Supermodels on MTV
St. Innocent 2009 Pinot Blanc Freedom Hill (Willamette Valley) – Wow, is this good. The nervy, angular side of pinot blanc, ripe to just the ideal point of apple, pear, and albino cherry, with firm acidity, a fleshy underbelly of …
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Tagged freedom hill, oregon, pinot blanc, st. innocent, synthetic cork, white, willamette valley
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Ladies’ Union
St. Innocent 2008 Pinot Noir Temperance Hill (Eola-Amity Hills) – 13.5%. Dense and difficult. Sludgy berries, a dark stew of charred tree and straight-up tar, no fun at all to drink. A stage? I certainly hope so. (8/11)
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Tagged eola-amity hills, oregon, pinot noir, red, st. innocent, temperance hill, willamette valley
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Dig F-ing Beal?
De Ponte 2010 “D.F.B.” Melon de Bourgogne (Willamette Valley) – To my knowledge, this is the first domestic melon de bourgogne I’ve tasted (barring it being a minor player in a blend). And it’s quite credible. Fuller than western Loire …
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Tagged de ponte, melon de bourgogne, oregon, white, willamette valley
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Montihall
Montinore Estate 2009 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley) – Tart red fruit, a little razored and volatile, with sharp and unintegrated acidity. It’s far from bad, but were this presented as a cheap little pinot-based quaffer rather than the result of …
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Tagged montinore estate, oregon, pinot noir, red, willamette valley
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Pretty paint
Belle Pente 2001 Pinot Noir “Estate Reserve” (Willamette Valley) – 14.3%. Singing, softly, a simple tune. Just a few notes, but pretty ones. Almost as much powder as liquid, earthen with a spattering of dark berries, and fully mature. (7/11)
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Tagged belle pente, oregon, pinot noir, red, willamette valley
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Adelsheim, Adelsheim, bless our homeland forever
Adelsheim 2006 Pinot Noir “Deglacé” (Willamette Valley) – 375 ml. Tastes more of generic sweet wine that anything particular, though there’s a shot of red berry juice that gestures vaguely in the direction of the source material. It’s clean and …
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Tagged adelsheim, icewine, oregon, pinot noir, rosé, sweet, willamette valley
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Can I get a Witness?
Witness Tree 2008 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley) – Blocky. Tiny berries, but rather than being concentrated and explosive with flavor, they’re just chewy and hard to clear from the palate. Aromatically numb, despite occasional spritzes of blood orange flower. There’s …
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Tagged oregon, pinot noir, red, willamette valley, witness tree
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Homestead on the range
Van Duzer 2003 Pinot Noir Homestead Block (Willamette Valley) – This has held better than I’d have expected, and matured less than I’d hoped. Alcohol plays a prominent role here, dragging the already-dark fruit into dangerous licorice-like realms, but otherwise …
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Tagged homestead block, oregon, pinot noir, red, van duzer, willamette valley
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