Browse Tag

western cape

Farm

Boekenhoutskloof 2008 “The Wolftrap” (Western Cape) – A syrah/mourvèdre/viognier blend. The viognier (or some viognier-aping aromatic yeast) is aromatically dominant, but otherwise this is sweet, sweet, sweet fruit…too sweet for my tastes, with ripeness in the slightly candied blueberry and sticky plum pudding realm. Patently grasping for mass appeal, and failing to be of more than anti-academic interest as a result. Boekenhoutskloof, while decidedly New World in style, can make much better wines than this elsewhere in the range. (9/09)

Yours

[vineyard]Neil Ellis 2007 “Sincerely” Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape) – Slashing, biting, and razoring as sauvignon is occasionally wont to do, but while it edges right up to the precipice of underripeness, it never quite completes that dive, and the result – while tongue-numbingly sharp – is a sort of cheap thrill ride for the palate. Green, most assuredly, but in a good way…though it’s no cocktail sipper, and will require sharply acidic food to tame its wilder impulses. (1/09)

Take a break

Signal Hill “La Siesta” 2005 Grenache Blanc (Western Cape) – When first conceived (not that long ago), this was the only grenache blanc in all of South Africa, though that may not be true any longer. I’ve ordered it because it’s “local” – the winery is, at least ostensibly, located in Cape Town – and it’s certainly an adventurous introduction to the local wine scene. Oxidative but complex…less Scholium Project or Gravner than Kalin…showing old apricot, brown soil, and an old-leaf, mulchy texture. Dry, white and peppery is how it finishes. Points for effort, and it’s quite drinkable (though a bit of a crank with food), but I think this could be a little better. (11/08)

Nick Lachey is South African?

Overhex “Soulo” 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape) – Green pepper juice, yet bisque-textured. How does that work, exactly? How does one pick a month too early and yet abandon any hint of acidity? (11/08)

Little Red Riding Hood

Boekenhoutskloof 2006 “The Wolftrap” (Western Cape) – 50% syrah, 48% mourvèdre,2% viognier, 14% alcohol. Full of flavor and woodspice, though the former is a little more dominated by the latter than I’d like. There are some earthen undertones, rumbling around way underneath the wine like some sort of mourvèdre-enhanced sub-woofer, so maybe some age will help. I suspect, though, that the wood will remain dominant. (7/08)

Vergeleggin’ it

[vineyards]Vergelegen 2006 Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape) – Excellent varietal character. Green grass, green apple, and intense but balanced precision. Very, very good. (2/08)

Oh, chenin, d’oh!

[hands]Sizanani 2006 Chenin Blanc (Western Cape) – Sour melon, leaves, and aspirin. Concentrated and thick, with a lack of light and a proportionally sludgy finish. This is a winery with an valuable mission for which winemaking is the venue, and I respect that…but you just can’t do this to chenin. (2/08)

Let’s go Duke

[bottles]Allée Bleue 2005 Shiraz (Western Cape) – Incredibly dense, to the point of organoleptic opacity. Balanced and structured, with blueberry and chocolate dominating. This will permanently ruin your teeth. It’s all too much, really, yet I’m sure many will find it appealing. (2/08)

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