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A miti wind

Lageder 2009 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Pinot Grigio (Trentino) – Pinot grigio for those who don’t like pinot grigio, and this is only the basic version: firm, rock-infused, with restrained, polished fruit and just enough grip. (11/11)

Terodego nights

Foradori 2008 Teroldego Rotaliano (Trentino) – Day one: absent nose, fine textural mince. Day two: hard-as-nails tannin with dried/burnt flower aromatics, blackened core, seething finish. Day three: lovely, proto-expressive nose of crushed flowers absolutely coated in fine-grained dirt, barely-juice-able wild fruit, and pomace. The wine does make day four, but not because it was incapable of doing so. (5/11)


Pojer e Sandri Traminer Grappa (Trentino) – Sweaty and fetid, but in a “good” way that’s actually more or less expected from this grape, I think. Very rough-and-tumble, rolling earthy aromatics and decaying flowers around in a constant swirl, and so forceful in this motion that a sense of the grappa’s alcoholic heat is nearly absent. (11/10)


Armani 2009 Corvara Pinot Grigio Valdadige (Trentino) – Decent straddling of the line between insipid plonk and something more mineral-driven and interesting. And there’s really not much more to be said about it. (5/10)


Pojer e Sandri Vigneti delle Dolomiti “Merlino” (Trentino) – Fortified lagrein. Intriguing. More high-toned and powdery than most fortified reds, which could well be a function of latitude, and whirling a bit under a heady sensation of crushed purple flowers. Good, mostly, but it doesn’t quite achieve the spicy richness of its more southerly brethren. Not that I’d expect it to. (12/09)

Follow your nosiola

[vineyard]Pojer & Sandri 2006 Nosiola (Trentino) – Very fragrant, but not lurid like muscat; it’s a perfume that seduces rather than assaults. And there’s an edgy, tactile zing that reminds me of txakolina in its more aggressive form. An exclamation point of a wine. (12/08)

"Dego" red

[vineyard]Foradori 1997 Teroldego Rotaliano (Trentino) – Dark blackberry, raspberry, and boysenberry with a bit of brett. Toothy and medium-bodied, with a fair wallop of acidity. More interesting than excellent, though it’s definitely good. (9/08)

Rosi cheeks

Rosi 2004 Marzemino “Riserva” (Trentino) – Difficult, and by that I don’t mean to criticize the wine. But it’s difficult. Angular yet muscular (not quite wiry; more like a Romanian gymnast), it broods in darkness and sullen faux-apathy, seemingly uncaring as to its performance. But it lingers, hanging around to – at last – give a hint of aromatic fruit, of earth, of graphite, of mountain blossoms. All the elements seem in balance, but there’s nothing of coherence or approachability to be found. Obviously, it requires time. It’s not very enjoyable now. (8/08)

The nosiolas have it

Nosiola (Trentino) – Intensely perfumed, though (oddly) more so on the palate than on the nose, with a limestone foundation and a tapering finish. (10/07)

The nosiola knows

Vivallis 2007 Nosiola (Trentino) – Floral, with very good acidity. Fun, clean, and sandy. Again, very simple. (2/08)

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