Chaussard (Briseau) “Nana, Vins et Cie” 2006 Coteaux du Loir “You Are So Beautiful” (Loire) – A chameleon. For a while, it’s volatile and prickly, all tinny treble tones. Then it deepens, reaching its most appealing stage with exciting aromas of slightly underripe reddish-green berries gently crushed directly under one’s nose; the seemingly brittle exterior is supported by a good deal of pressure within. It broadens further with even more air, but as it does the fruit gains a vinyl sheen dusted with a fairly significant abrasion of fireplace ash, turns to darker berries, then sort of gives up on itself. I’ll say this: you won’t be bored. (1/09)
Browse Tag
synthetic cork
Arnie
Palmer 2006 Pinot Blanc (North Fork) – Aromatically, this is quite enticing, showing ripe pear and vaguely citrusy notes with a little bit of spice and greengage plum. Unfortunately, the palate’s dominated by an off-putting synthetic quality. While there’s structural balance, it’s impossible to get past the plastic. A shame, because things were promising there for a while. (1/09)
Etxe fingers
Hillau “Domaine Etxegaraya” 2002 Irouléguy (Southwest France) – Clinging to relevance. Sharp-tongued animate blackberries, a sort of meat residue aroma, some fairly luscious darkness, but it’s all on the verge of drying out. This would likely be much better under another closure than its synthetic cork, and while this is the best-preserved of the four bottles thus far, given the circumstances it would have been better to drink it at release. (1/09)
Ameztoi story
![[vineyard]](http://www.txakoliameztoi.com/images/01fot01g.jpg)
Amesguren “Ameztoi” 2007 Getariako Txakolina (Northwest Spain) – How great is this wine, anyway? Citrus (mostly ripe grapefruit) with verve, vibrant acidity, makrut lime, sugar crystals without sweetness, and a healthy dollop of fun. If you don’t like this (or at least appreciate its quality), I suspect you don’t actually like wine. (5/08)