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Sparring partner

Sparr 2004 “One” (Alsace) – This was too long to hold what is a fun, blended wine, because it’s getting watery at both the core and the fringes, but what’s left is still an easy-drinking, anonymous-grape quaffer. (1/10)


Sparr 2002 Gewurztraminer (Alsace) – Dark and fairly advanced; well-spiced goop with darkly leaden shards of minerality. Goes with pretty much nothing, food-wise, but useful as a heady aperitif. Drink up, though. (12/08)

Sparr quality

[label]Sparr 2004 Alsace “One” (Alsace) – Good, basic Alsace spice, with pear and decent enough acidity for the mild sweetness. As reliable a party wine as you’ll ever find. (11/07)

Mambourg number five

[label]Sparr 2002 Gewurztraminer Mambourg “Grand Cru” (Alsace) – Intense but not overdriven, with a burnt-mineral foundation layered with firm crystallized peach, lychee and almond and a supportive acid backbone, which completely dominates the very mild residual sweetness. Balanced, long and showing its terroir; what more could one want from a gewürztraminer? (8/07)

Sparrs and stripes

[label]Sparr 2001 Riesling Schoenenbourg “Grand Cru” (Alsace) – A softening sweetness can’t detract from the pure terroir on display here: crushed white flowers, a little chalk, a rounded and polished core that tails off a bit on the finish. Classic and ageworthy, though there’s definitely that sugar to contend with. (9/07)

Sparring partner

[vineyard]Sparr 2002 “One” (Alsace) – As usual, a sort of summary of Alsatian organoleptics: spice, pear, minerality and ripe apple, with a bit of crispness and a faint, drinkable sweetness. Nice. (8/07)