Browse Tag



Pellegrino 2004 Moscato di Pantelleria (Sicily) – 375 ml. Perfume with a heady edge of pine, lemon curd, and dry ice. Not as simple as everyday moscato, and an incomparably massive improvement over the horrid 2003. A fun finish. (11/08)

Wolf whistle

[grapes]COS 2005 “Nuro di Lupo” Nero d’Avola (Sicily) – Smells like Sicily. Not the dirty part, but the rich, everything-grows-wild-everywhere countryside, with a deep foundation and a swaggering black minerality layered with berries, leaves, and more rich soil. Beautiful. (9/08)

COS, bee, show

[label]COS 2005 Cerasuolo di Vittoria (Sicily) – Reliable as hell, showing pie fruit and mixed powdered peppercorns in clay, with a not-insignificant swath of cèpe. Open, but with structure; this could age for a little while, I think. The problem is not drinking it in the interim, because it’s quite tasty. (6/08)

Bukkuram, Dano

de Bartoli 2001 Passito di Pantelleria “Bukkuram” (Sicily) – Old flowers, coriander-spiced licorice, and leaves. Light, elegant, and moderately sweet. Good acid balance. Very slighty sun-baked. Good, but it’s been better. (2/07)

Pantelleria raid

Giovi Grappa Moscato di Pantelleria (Sicily) – Perfumed and stinging (in a good way), then softens and broadens, before narrowing to a more focused finish. (2/07)

Bon Giovi

Giovi Grappa all’Ortica e Limone (Sicily) – Bitter, sour, sweet, and sweaty. Really complex, and yet harsh at the same time. It wants to be loved, but actual love is problematic. (2/07)

Ceuso lounge

Ceuso 2001 “Ceuso” (Sicily) – Solid leather, black fruit, dirt, oak, and chocolate. Too international and anonymous for my taste. (2/07)

Ole & Salina jokes

Hauner 2004 Salina Rosso (Sicily) – Dill on the hose, with raw cherry and walnut. The palate is like a firepit, with a charcoal char vying with cedar woodmoke. Rough, wild, and dirty. And not that good. (2/07)

Don’t give me any Lipari

Hauner 2003 Malvasia delle Lipari “Passito” (Sicily) – Mixed cereal grains, oat bran, dried apricot, and corn nuts. Fat. Really strange, and while I’m inclined to blame the vintage, there might well be something else at work. (2/07)